[LEFT][SIZE=1][FONT=TTE28098F0t00][SIZE=1][COLOR=#333333][FONT=TTE28098F0t00][SIZE=1][COLOR=#333333]Hi Gene,[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]I have a Maytag Gemini Eletric Range Model #MER6770AAC Serial #11703366U and I’m getting an F1-2 code.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]Everything I read says that it means a "runaway cook lower oven" and can either be one of the two thermostats[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]or the touchpad. I have tried shutting of the breaker for 5-10 minutes but that doesn’t fix the problem.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]I have a number of questions. First, in the sheet that says "IMPORTANT Technicians Use Only" there is no F1-2[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]error code,. They have F1-1 & F1-3 AND F2-2. Is the F2-2 a misprint (it says runaway cook lower oven).[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]Second, assuming that my F1-2 code is a runaway cook lower oven where would you start looking for the[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]problem? With the two thermostats? If so, what is the resistance (I assume that’s how I would check them)? If[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]not do I check the board? How and is there a diagram of what it looks like?[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]Any help would be greatly appreciated![/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]Thanks,[/SIZE][/LEFT]
[SIZE=1]Charles[/SIZE]
[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
Charles, could you have chosen a smaller font for your message? :eek:
That is what the control ‘thinks’ is occurring, yes. Is that oven overheating??
That fault code could be caused by the oven actually overheating, by the control being fed incorrect temperature data by the oven temperature sensor and/or its wiring or the control misinterpreting the temperature data it is receiving (ie. defective control).
If it WAS overheating, with the control looking for a shorted relay for the element(s) staying on. Next with the oven temperature sensor.
LINK > http://www.appliance411.com/data.php?ap=AP4009010
If it was NOT actually overheating when the fault code displayed, starting with the oven temperature sensor and its wiring circuit would likely be the course of action most technicians would follow.
LINK > http://www.appliance411.com/data.php?ap=AP4009009
LINK > http://www.appliance411.com/links/jump.cgi?ID=918
JMO
Dan O.
http://www.appliance411.com/parts/?ref411=Maytag+Range*The Appliance Information Site*
=D~~~~~~
Definitely. While there’s only a slim chance it is the cause it is one of the only things that can actually be checked for your possible error message.
It can’t be AFAIK. Its failure is usually just assumed once any other possibilities are ruled out.
JMO
Dan O.
http://www.appliance411.com/parts/?ref411=Jenn-Air+Range*The Appliance Information Site*
=D~~~~~~
Hi Dan,
Now I’m frustrated. I pulled the stove out and took off the back so that I would be able to check the resistance of the sensor since the only time it throws a code is when the oven is on and hot. Now I’ve had both ovens on together and seaprately, and no codes/alarms!
I did check resistance at the different temps on both sensors as the ovens cooled down from 450 and they both matched specs. So any ideas or do I just go and buy a electronic control?
Here’s the topper! We have continued to use both ovens for actual food prep and no codes/alarms. So rather than spend $240+ maybe the fix is to just pull the range out take off the back, put it back and push the range back in. 
I can do that say once a month or so since I’m retired and have a limited income with plenty of time!
Whadya think?
Sounds like you have a connection problem.
The sensor is a positive temperature devices : re the resistance increases as temperature increases so if you have a bad connection to a sensor the unit will think it has overheated. May even be a bad solder joint or cracked circuit trail on the board.
Your problem may never show up again.
The odds are against it but it does happen.
In any case without seeing a fault you cannot fix the problem.
"Sounds like you have a connection problem"
That’s what I was thinking,
"Your problem may never show up again.
The odds are against it but it does happen."
I know. Over the years I’ve come to realize that things just don’t "go away" or fix themselves.
Thanks for the advice.
SO do you think I ruined it?
Well you did not do it any good.
Depends on what type of insulation is in the door.
If it is foam it should be OK though I would let it drain out for a day or two before turning the freezer back on. If water is in the wrong place then it could crack your door liner when it freezes.
If the insulation is fiberglass then I would replace the insulation. Once fiberglass gets wet it looses most of it’s insulating value.
I had this same issue, where giving the oven more space and airflow caused the problem to "go away". I kept digging and posted the eventual (cheap!) fix here:
http://appliancejunk.com/forums/index.php?topic=18378.0
Hope this helps someone if they (like me) find this thread looking for answers…