I have just finished replacing the tub seal and hub bearing on our 10 year old washer. (Water was dripping from the seal under the center of the outer tub) The assembly went well and took a couple of hours. When we started it up, the leak was gone!! However, during the spin cycle the machine makes a grinding noise that is really annoying. The pump is working, the inner tub seems to stop fine after the cycle but I am concerned that the leak has affected other parts. Any ideas would be much appreciated.
After responding I went and checked the spin cycle again. It is making noise from the start of the spin cylce and the noise level increases as it gains speed.
Probably is different. I soaked it with wd40 and will let it soak for awhile. I will upgrade to a 3lb hammer!! Hope I don’t break something else. If I do, I may consider getting an Amana. Thanks for the response.
I did remove the drive belt and ran it through the spin cycle as suggested. No noise so I can rule out the water pump. Adding to my preivious post, is there a special process for removing the brake other than beating it with a hammer?
I did remove the drive belt and ran it through the spin cycle as suggested. No noise so I can rule out the water pump. Adding to my preivious post, is there a special process for removing the brake other than beating it with a hammer?
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First you need to make sure that you remove the holding clamp, then
you need one of these…
Yup, that’s the wrench. I went against the experts advice and gave the brake a "whack" in the other direction. Came loose right away. Now, the next issue is the bearing is shot, but will not come off of the transmission shaft. There isn’t any room to get behind it and pry it off and it is recessed in the transmission cover so I can’t get anything on it to pull it free. Do you know if they make a special bearing puller for these? I am considering putting some heat to it. Thanks for all the help and I won’t get an Amana!!
I tried some heat, didn’t work. Do you have any ideas that will get this bugger off? Do I have to take the shaft out? I am almost out of patience. I have to believe this is not an isolated problem. I have to take the wrench back today so the clock is ticking. Do you know if there is an on-line repair manual available?
Thanks
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Just be careful where you apply heat. You could run the risk of
damaging an oil seal in the lower part of the gear case.
[SIZE=3]The shaft is part of the gear case so you have to pull the [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]outer tub to get that out. I ran into this before [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]but I cant remember exactly what I did to get the bearing out.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]I think in one case I had to pull the gear case out anyway,[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]so I just gave the gear case a few good tugs and managed to break[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]it loose. But yours may be stuck on shaft tighter than that one was.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]Maybe setting up an impact or vibration on the bearing itself[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]will break its grip. You might be able to take a piece of pipe[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]that would go around the shaft and have the end of the pipe [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]seat against the bearing itself, make sure its long enough to extend [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]past the transmission shaft to avoid damage to it, And set some [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]impact against the bearing itself to try and break its grip. Just be careful[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]not to damage anything on the transmission shaft. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]Hope this helps.[/SIZE]
Thanks for sticking with me on this one. I tried an air hammer and cutting tool to no avail. Just dulled the tool. I used a deep socket on the shaft and hit it with a hammer a few times, didn’t budge. I am heading to home depot to buy a dremel drill and a cutting tool to see if can cut it off. If that doesnt work, I will be asking you for instructions on how to remove the transmission. You know, this is discouraging as I can usually fix most things. The tub and bearing seals were a piece of cake compared to this. I was told that the lower bearing is not difficult to replace. I have rebuilt engines in less time than I have spent on this washer.
Okay, problem solved. I ended up cutting the old bearing off with a dremel cutting tool. I would not recommend this approach as it is time consuming.
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It doesn’t look like you had much choice.
When I was in the field that was always part of the job.
No, the customer wasn’t thrilled about paying the extra
coin for the bearing. But you can better believe they
would have been pissed if I had to go back out and
tear into the washer again because I didn’t replace it
to begin with.
Just a heads up,
That break package does have lubrication in it.
You don’t need to pull the brake apart to do it.
about a tablespoon of 90 weight oil is all it needs.
[SIZE=3] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3] [/SIZE]
I hear ya. People don’t have a problem buying something new but when repairs are needed (and if mechanical it will need service eventually) they will choose the cheapest parts and minimal service required. The repair industry is a tough one and to be successful it helps to be a people person when explaining their options. I do some works on cars, outboards and small engines and I tell people that I would prefer they pay a couple bucks more for quality parts. That way, they won’t be seeing me anytime soon. I hear the sweet sound of the washing machine in the backgroud. No more leaks and we don’t have to turn the TV up while it’s running. Thanks again for your help!!
Hi- I have a Kenmore 70 series clothes washer, model 110 20722 991, that will not agitate at all. The timer makes a quiet clicking as it goes through the motions, yet will not agitate whatsoever in the wash phase and operates as usual through spin, drain, ect. I would like to keep this washer as a extra and hate the idea of throwing it out if it is a minor problem, but hate the idea of investing unrefundable money in it even more! Any help is appreciated-- Thanks.
