I’ve got a Maytag Neptune Washer, model MAH3000AWW and it shut off immediately at the start of the first rinse cycle. It also appears to have very little water coming in the Bleach and Softener dispensors. So far, I’ve replaced all three wax motors, and have a new control board in it.
I’ve just ordered a new water inlet valve. Any other ideas? thanks.
I am experiencing the same issues as rleinen, my machine has also lost cold water input. It will finish the cycle by continually restarting it.
What I have been able to conclude due to trial and error to date is.
I believe the trouble is a faulty control circuit board.
I had it replaced several years ago under mfgr’s warranty. At the time there was a resistor (R11) that burnt out along with a transistor (Q6)
In a forum back then it was suggested to replace the resistor with a 10,000 ohm one and the transistor. I was able to replace the resistor but could not find a transistor. I switched control boards and the washer ran fine through the wash and rinse cycles but would not spin. I was hoping to avoid the cost of another control board. I would like to know if anyone is able to identify the transistor and a source to purchase it.
Maytag Neptune model mah3000aww Washer goes thru all the cycles ok but will not spin can it be the the "door lock spin enable switch" is bad.
Open the control panel and check the control board for a burned resistor(s).
Post your findings.
Gene.
I too had R11/Q6 fail on the circuit board of a MAH3000AWW. According to the service manual, the DC resistance of the 12002535 door wax motor should be around 1900 ohms. The resistance of the old brown actuator wax motor was around 1K ohm. I ordered a replacement from APP, but the DC resistance of this new (black actuator) wax motor is even lower at 950 ohms. Does anybody know if this is OK? (Maytag’s Priority One staff doesn’t and neither do the local Maytag repair companies.) I sure don’t want to end up frying the control board again.
I have a bad oven cavity thermistor, but I can’t figure out how to get it out of the exhaust duct. It has a metal plate attached to it that is bigger than the opening. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
You have to remove the microwave from the cabinet and remove the outer case.
Gene.
Thanks. That Worked!
You are welcome. I’m glad you were able to fix it.
Gene.
I am having an intermittent stoppage of my Maytag MAH3000AWW, Ser # 18111546SW (Series 18, I think), just prior to the rinse cycle, still full of wash water. It happens in both the standard wash and delay mode. Water appears to be flowing into the machine normally (visually and touch verified at detergent fill). Bleach wax motor operational. Door wax motor working fine (replaced a few years ago, w/R11), Door Locked LED on. Machine stops, alll lights out. Press Start/Stop and will complete cycle. Most likey guess is Machine Control Board, but it is expensive.
Any ideas to confirm/diagnose?
Thanks!
— Begin quote from jkoval;192979
I am having an intermittent stoppage of my Maytag MAH3000AWW, Ser # 18111546SW (Series 18, I think), just prior to the rinse cycle, still full of wash water. It happens in both the standard wash and delay mode. Water appears to be flowing into the machine normally (visually and touch verified at detergent fill). Bleach wax motor operational. Door wax motor working fine (replaced a few years ago, w/R11), Door Locked LED on. Machine stops, alll lights out. Press Start/Stop and will complete cycle. Most likey guess is Machine Control Board, but it is expensive.
Any ideas to confirm/diagnose?
Thanks!
— End quote
One of possible causes described in the Service bulletin. Follow the instructions from it and check everything.
The above ling does not work anymore. The service bulletin is attached to the reply.
Gene.
Thanks for the Tech Bulletin. I’ll check out the neutral connection and see if that helps!
You are welcome. Keep us posted.
Gene.
Gene, you helped me before with my dishwasher. Can’t thank you enough. Can you help with a Maytag Neptune front load washer. Sounds like the drum spin bearing is worn out making an awful noise. Any remove and replace advice. Your the best. Mike
Hi Mike,
Thank you for your good words. What is the complete model number of the washer?
Gene.
I checked out the wiring of the neutral line at tthe water valve. It looks OK. I pulled and reseated and will wait for the next few loads to see if any change. Will keep you postted.
Try http://www.neptunebearing.com for bearing help…
jkoval thanks great site.
— Begin quote from Gene;193212
One of possible causes described in the Service bulletin. Follow the instructions from it and check everything.
Gene.
— End quote
I READ YOUR REPLY TO (jkoval) AND HAVE SOME FOLLOW-UP QUESTIONS :
(1) HOW DO YOU GET ACCESS TO THE SOLENOID, SINCE THE SCREW HOLDING IT, IS ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE BRACKET? ( BRACKET MAY BE THE INCORRECT NAME FOR THE PART THAT HOLDS THE SOLENOIDS)
(2) IT LOOKS LIKE, IF I COULD SLIDE OR REMOVE THE "TOP" OF THE WASHER, I MIGHT HAVE BETTER ACCESS TO THE SOLENOID. IS THIS TRUE ? IF SO. WHAT DO I HAVE TO DO; TO SLIDE OR MOVE IT ?
(3) THANK YOU IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR HELP…nicmalou
— Begin quote from nicmalou;204628
I READ YOUR REPLY TO (jkoval) AND HAVE SOME FOLLOW-UP QUESTIONS :
(1) HOW DO YOU GET ACCESS TO THE SOLENOID, SINCE THE SCREW HOLDING IT, IS ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE BRACKET? ( BRACKET MAY BE THE INCORRECT NAME FOR THE PART THAT HOLDS THE SOLENOIDS)
(2) IT LOOKS LIKE, IF I COULD SLIDE OR REMOVE THE "TOP" OF THE WASHER, I MIGHT HAVE BETTER ACCESS TO THE SOLENOID. IS THIS TRUE ? IF SO. WHAT DO I HAVE TO DO; TO SLIDE OR MOVE IT ?
(3) THANK YOU IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR HELP…nicmalou
— End quote
It can be removed from the back of the washer as well as from the front.
1/ Rear removal:
[FONT=Courier][SIZE=3][FONT=Courier][SIZE=3][FONT=Courier][SIZE=3][FONT=Courier][SIZE=3][LEFT]Shut off the water to the inlet hoses and remove the hoses from the water valve connections of the washer.
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT]Remove the two ¼" hex head screws securing the water valve bracket to the cabinet.
[SIZE=3][FONT=Courier][SIZE=3]While pulling the lower end of the bracket down slightly, slide the bracket to the left. This will allow the injector hose to clear the rear cabinet opening.[/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT][/LEFT]
[FONT=Courier][SIZE=3][FONT=Courier][SIZE=3][FONT=Courier][SIZE=3][FONT=Courier][SIZE=3][LEFT]While pulling the bracket away from the cabinet, rotate the left side of the bracket away from the washer.
2/ Front removal:
[/LEFT]
[FONT=Courier][SIZE=3][FONT=Courier][SIZE=3]Remove the front panel.
[FONT=Courier][SIZE=3][FONT=Courier][SIZE=3][LEFT]Remove dispenser bezel and raise the top cover to expose the upper rear cabinet area.
I would prefer the rear removal.
Gene.[/LEFT]
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT]
— Begin quote from Gene;205242
It can be removed from the back of the washer as well as from the front.
1/ Rear removal:
[LEFT][SIZE=3][FONT=Courier][SIZE=3][FONT=Courier][SIZE=3][FONT=Courier][SIZE=3]Shut off the water to the inlet hoses and remove the hoses from the water valve connections of the washer.[/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Courier][SIZE=3][FONT=Courier][SIZE=3][FONT=Courier][SIZE=3]
[/SIZE][/FONT]Remove the two ¼" hex head screws securing the water valve bracket to the cabinet.
[SIZE=3][FONT=Courier][SIZE=3]While pulling the lower end of the bracket down slightly, slide the bracket to the left. This will allow the injector hose to clear the rear cabinet opening.[/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Courier][SIZE=3][FONT=Courier][SIZE=3][FONT=Courier][SIZE=3]While pulling the bracket away from the cabinet, rotate the left side of the bracket away from the washer.[/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Courier][SIZE=3][FONT=Courier][SIZE=3][FONT=Courier][SIZE=3][/LEFT]
[LEFT][SIZE=3]2/ Front removal:[/SIZE][/LEFT]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Courier][SIZE=3][FONT=Courier][SIZE=3]Remove the front panel.[/SIZE]
[LEFT][SIZE=3][FONT=Courier][SIZE=3][FONT=Courier][SIZE=3]Remove dispenser bezel and raise the top cover to expose the upper rear cabinet area.[/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT][/FONT][/SIZE][SIZE=3][FONT=Courier][FONT=Courier][SIZE=3][/LEFT]
[LEFT][SIZE=3]I would prefer the rear removal.[/SIZE][/LEFT]
[LEFT][SIZE=3]Gene.[/SIZE][/LEFT]
[/SIZE][/FONT][/FONT][/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT][/FONT][/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT]
— End quote
Gene is right, the rear is probably the easiest. I chose the front/top since I had it open aleady. You will probalby notice that the dispenser bezel/cover is cracked or cracks when you take it off. If you are comfortable with that, you have easy access to the wiring from the top.
John