If you have a Maytag Performa washer that shakes a lot, or has a weak spin, you probably have a bad snubber.Look for white shavings at the bottom of the washer, this will confirm a bad snubber.If you see a lot of oil at the bottom you have a bad tranny seal, probably new tranny time. A little oil is normal.
To replace this, download the service manual located at (%url%) Click on manuals, then washers.
Follow the procedure shown, you will need to pull the entire tub out with the tranny, turn upside downand brace with pieces of 2x4’s. To save strain on the back, you can pry up the tub from the bottom and slide out the front. Use electrical metal boxes to spread the springs when removing, or use 1/8 inch thick pieces of metal, no need to buy the spring spreader tool. You will NOT need to buy the expensive brake release tool. If there is a spin screech when stopping, you will need to replace the brakes also, But be careful, there is a 200 pound tension spring in there.
Buy six 8-32 machine screws 1 1/2 inch long and replace the brake housing screws with these. Loosen these screws, keeping the housing even, until all the tension is off the assembly. When you replace the snubber, clean the housing with alcohol getting all the oil off. Emery paper the housing if necessary, then insert the new snubber and sprinkle corn starch on it. That will keep the wear down. If the base is pitted/worn too bad, you might want to replace it.
With your model washer, you may not need to buy the screws, the existing screws might be long enough. Also, you will NOT need to remove the tranny pulley.
Also, I believe this procedure will work for other models with the large snubber in the housing, correct me if I’m wrong.
Probably a two hour job, good luck.
Hi richappy,
I`ve read your instructions for snubber replacement and also downloaded the service manual for the Maytag Performa. If you dont mind, please clarify a few points before I tackle this project.
"Follow the procedure shown, you will need to pull the entire tub out with the tranny, turn upside downand brace with pieces of 2x4’s. To save strain on the back, you can pry up the tub from the bottom and slide out the front."
What am I turning upside down? the entire washing machine? I understand the snap ring and pully need to be removed so the shaft is free from the base. Where are the 2x4`s used??
"Use electrical metal boxes to spread the springs when removing, or use 1/8 inch thick pieces of metal, no need to buy the spring spreader tool. You will NOT need to buy the expensive brake release tool. If there is a spin screech when stopping, you will need to replace the brakes also, But be careful, there is a 200 pound tension spring in there.
Buy six 8-32 machine screws 1 1/2 inch long and replace the brake housing screws with these. Loosen these screws, keeping the housing even, until all the tension is off the assembly."
I understand these instructions, but just to be sure…once the spring tension is released from the brake, and the suspension housing is free of the stator, the snubber is accessable for replacement?
Thanks in advance for all your help!
Mr Larry
Thanks to your advice and guidance, I have replaced the Snubber in my Maytag Performa Washer. The Wife and the Machine are a LOT quieter!!
Tackled mine today and could not relate the "electrical box" suggestion for removing the springs from the tub / base (mine has six springs). Had very little trouble removing the springs with channel locks. Removed the back plate so I could get at the back springs and discharge hose. Tipped it over on it’s side a ways to remove the pulley (keep track of the bunch of washers including thrust washers and a thrust bearing when you take the snap ring off the driveshaft as there are a bunch of them. Springs were a B**** to hook back up. Ended up using vise grips, long screwdriver (as a pry bar) and a six inch log piece of 2 x 4 as a fulcrum. Was a tad surprised as most of my old snubber was intact with just the outer lip worn away but it sure looks like the new snubber did the trick. It is about a two hour job, maybe one hour for the second time around.
I used thick washers to expand the springs and as far as I have seen, you do NOT have to remove the pulley to replace the snubber on the Performa.
Mine had six springs and I was able to unhook all of them with channel locks (unhook them from the drum not the base)…Getting them hooked up again was nasty. Had to use vise grips on the spring and about a six inch piece of 2x4 and a long screwdriver kinda like a pry bar.
Good luck…you will be happy with the results!
…and this was for the 200lbs brake spring I keep hearing about?
The six springs hold the tub down snug to the snubber / base! they have to come off in order to get the tub out so you can work on it…The 200 lb tension compression spring on the brake is a whole different ball game. Once you get the tub / transmission out and upside down you will see (I think EIGHT) 5/16" hex head screws holding a plate / brake assembly / spring in place.(this plate also holds the snubber in place) I didn’t screw with my brake but it seems you DO have to remove the pully to get the plate off so you can replace the brake. The screws MAY be long enough to release presure on the spring if you brack them out leaving a few threads in the base. If there still seems to be tension I would suggest replacing three or four of the screws with longer ones. Seems like they are 8/32 then continue backing them off until there’s nothing pressing out on the plate suggesting there is still presure on it.
The second one you replace will go faster!!!
When you loosen all the screws on the brake housing, you will release the tension on the internal spring. On the performa, the screws should be long enough to do it.
— Begin quote from richappy;62631
When you loosen all the screws on the brake housing, you will release the tension on the internal spring. On the performa, the screws should be long enough to do it.
— End quote
So when I replace my Brake rotor, lining, and brake stator I will only need to loosen all the screws on the brake housing? I do have a Performa, PAV3300AWW to be exact.
While I didn’t piddle with my brake I would imagine the pully, all the screws, AND the plate / spring have to be removed. The lineing has to be above the spring.
This should be fun. I’m going to try this without the brake tool. Wish me luck.
As long as you no NOT remove the pulley, you will be ok. The pulley will stop the housing from springing out all the way. In case the screws are too short, the only real problem will be it’l be harder to get it back together.
If you are concerned, I would just buy and use the longer screws.
Thought there were replies to your question but don’t see them today. No the springs that hold down force between the tub and snubber are / is not the same as the spring that creates brake force.
[COLOR=#333333]"one person simply pressed down so the screws would reach. The only tricky part was putting the little clip back".
Great all went well for you. Don’t understand what you pressed down on so the screws would reach means and surprised the six springs didn’t give you some trouble but I agree a tool would be a total wast of money. I take it you did remove the pulley which I’ve now read isn’t necessary for replacing just the snubber.
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I need the part the rotates the drum (the main bearing, according to my repairman). Would that be a shell rear/bearing (AP2047594)? The part itself had the following number on it: 6306RSD.
This is an expensive repair. Check your warranty, the tub may be covered.
I just assumed after 7 years I have no more warranty! My handyman says get the main bearing that rotates the drum and he’ll replace it for me. He checked out everything else. The repair guy said just get a new washer. What to do?
thanks for your advice!
If the washer still does high speed spin, I would get it fixed, it’s worth it. Chances are you only need the rear tub shell bearings and seal. Rather labor intensive and complicated. I would ask for a quote from an appliance repair person who has done this before. I would not get it fixed by a handyman, too complicated.
Basically, to do this you need to remove all items in the bottom of the washer, brace up the tub, remove the support springs and shocks, then remove the tub and door bellows. Brace the tub with 2x4 s and pound out the spin basket with a log splitter. You will need to protect the basket shaft with a piece of wood or heavy plastic. If the spindle is damaged/ scored, you will need a new spin basket which is rather pricey.
Then you will need to pound out the rear tub bearings. Many times, the outer bearing is ok, just the inner bearing is bad.
This is probably a four hour job. Good luck.