[COLOR=red][SIZE=5][COLOR=#008000]I’m having a problem with my Maytag washer Model La512. I recently ordered and installed the "injector" portion (which consisted of 3 small parts) of the Injector hose kit, into my washer to stop it from leaking at that point when it filled the tub. However, that did not stop the problem and it continues to "spew" water out randomly during the filling process. Not always, just sometimes. I’m wondering WHY? 
Could there be a problem with the Water Inlet Valve? I would like to know just what that part (#AP4023852) does. That is where the two hoses come together and I believe it is part of what controls the temperature of the water, and therefore the mixing of the hot and cold. Could this have anything to do with why water randomly will spew from the injector portion of the fill hose??? HELP![/SIZE][/COLOR]
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Just take the injector out it is not needed. Run the black hose from the top of the water valve, directly to the the water inlet at the top of the tub. Tom http://www.applianceeducator.com
Thanks so much. I wondered about that myself. I’ve done it and will try to run it tomorrow. No reason why it shouldn’t work. Thanks again.
They were probably put there to keep the Maytag Repairman busy…sort of Maytag’s equivalent to the whirlpool agitator dogs that have to be replaced every now and then.
— Begin quote from kayakcrzy;63821
I always hated those injectors. They really were not needed. Tom ApplianceEducator.com
— End quote
Wow. I had the same problem with leakage. We had a quarter of our boxes in the basement soaked because of this issue. I cracked the thing open and found this doodad injector and I scratched my head about what the heck it did because one hose comes off the water solenoid. I guessed rightly it’s for "mixing" ahem. What a crock. I was about to go out and buy a longer hose for five bucks to hook the think up like indicate and I did one last google search and found you smart people.
What a JOKE. I lost some valuable papers, books, and other items because of this doodad injector for "mixing water" inline to the wash tub. I want to strangle someone at Maytag. Useless crap. At least their washer is solid. Leaking water is no small thing people. It can cause huge damage. I’m fit to be tied, but thanks for the validation.
— Begin quote from kayakcrzy;63821
I always hated those injectors. They really were not needed. Tom ApplianceEducator.com
— End quote
I had the same problem with our 15 yr old Maytag washer this weekend and after I got done replacing that lil injector valve…came online to see what I might find out about it. Was glad to find this site.
I purchased just the rubber part locally, and it fixed the leak. The old part was definately deterioated and "weathered"…and when I capped one end and blew in the other end, I could feel a stream of air.
I had asked the "tech" guy at the appliance repair place what this thing did. He said it was an injector.
I asked "so…what does it inject?" He said, "water". Told him I was really at a loss to understand the function of this part. Evidently, when water rushes into the small rubber tube, it forces the rubber to expand out against the plastic cage that surrounds it, and the rubber tube thus shortens up and allows the small cone-shaped end of the plastic stem inside to be uncovered; but what of it?
What exactly does this "injector" do ? After reading some of the other posts and replies, it appears this thing is superfluous; but I’d still like to know Maytag’s original intent.
BTW, thanks for an excellent site.
My repair book by EB Publishing (great books by the way) says it is an anti siphon valve to prevent wash water from siphoning back into the home’s water system.
I finally pulled the washer out and opened the case looking for a sporadic leak. Spend an hour inside and around the thing and it finally decided to leak for me. I too was dumb founded there was an open cup that would leak at times.
Possibly contributing to my problem, I verified the cold solenoid on the fill valve is sometime not opening all the way and it fills real slow at times on cold only.
If it is less than $5 I’ll replace it with like part, otherwise, I’ll plumb direct. My water pressure reducer in the home should prevent any backfeeding.
Here are the parts
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?model=artsc8651ss
Here is the tech sheet in case you do not have it.
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/T232_34R1.pdf
Unfortunately it sounds like the control board is gone, especially as the errors are opposites one a short the other an open.
Is the control board, the ERC? If it is, I’ve just replace it a year ago. Can it go out that quickly? It’s expensive.
Is the control board, the ERC?
Yes
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If it is, I’ve just replace it a year ago. Can it go out that quickly?[/COLOR]
Yes if you are unlucky.
You have replaced the sensor. When you did this you probably had the power off to the unit for some time so if the board was going to reset it would have.
So it is my best guess.
It’s expensive.
Yes it is at $207.44
But it was erroring F3, F4 before I’ve replaced the heating sensor.
"error f3 and f4, replaced temperature sensor but still have the same error"
But it was erroring F3, F4 before I’ve replaced the heating sensor
You said in your first post that it was giving the F3 and F4 errors and you replaced the temperature sensor but it is still giving the errors.
Or did I misunderstand this.
The tech sheet shows F3 as an open sensor and F4 as a shorted sensor.
This makes no sense as they are exact opposites and that is why I believe that something on the control board must be screwed up.
You could pull the sensor and check it with a meter should be approximately 1,100 ohms.
You could also check that the ground strap (if a 3 wire hook up)
and Neutral are tight. Sometimes a bad earth ground can do weird things.
Hopefully someone else will jump in with additional thoughts/solutions to this problem.
I’m sorry, I’m not being clear. Let me describe the original problem. The oven would turn on and heat up to the set temperature and then error F3. I replace the temperature sensor and it still does error F3 and when I cancel it and start again, that’s when I get error F3 and then F4. Hope this make more since.
Very weird.
All I can suggests is that you try the stuff in may last post.
Also check to see if the connector for the temperature sensor on the board is OK. Check the pins for corrosion usually a light gray or tan coating. Also check that the pins are properly soldered in. Wiggle the pin while carefully watching the solder if the pin moves in the solder it is a bad solder joint. Also cold solder joints are usually a duller silver color or have pin holes.
All this of coarse is done with the unit unplugged.
I cannot explain why you get an open sensor fault and then a shorted sensor fault. This may just be the way they monitor the sensor re: if the sensor reading drops suddenly it may trip a shorted sensor error.
[SIZE=3]I, too, have eliminated the injector. As a direct consequence, my washer now fills slowly.
Are the air holes in the injector sleeve (plastic ) allowing the water to flow faster (as well as letting the water come out all over)?
Because my removal of the injector caused the slow filling, I haven’t checked the screen.
Any advice?
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The fan motor in the freezer compartment squeals when the fan motor increases speed. I removed the motor and spun the fan with my finger and could make it squeal a little, the vibration seemed to come from the magnetic part of the motor. Do you know what part of the motor would go bad to cause the squeal and can the motor be repaired or is it best just to repalce the entire motor?
The bearings are probably shot.
I would replace the motor.
Taking the motor apart, cleaning and then oiling them may last a week or years it is hard to tell.
— Begin quote from denman;329152
The bearings are probably shot.
I would replace the motor.
Taking the motor apart, cleaning and then oiling them may last a week or years it is hard to tell.
— End quote
Thanks Denman, I’m taking your advise and will purchase a new motor and be done with it. Although trying to save the old motor and save a buck or two seems to be part of my DNA. I can’t help it!
I found this thread while doing a Google search for an A512 Washer - searching for part# 215447 - and I am thankful I found this thread.
Long story short, my injector was leaking on the hot water cycle only (but only a minor drip on cold cycle). Rubber was shot on 215447, which hot water made worse… thus the worse leaking on hot.
When I found this thread, I thought - what the heck, and eliminated the injector all together. I removed the injector, and simply hooked a 3/4" to 3/4" male coupling, by-passing the injector bracket all together. (I left bracket attached to washer in case I needed it later) It worked like a charm!!!
In regards to the "tank filling slowly" question, I did not experience that problem at all. (In fact it seemed to fill a little faster for me). No problems with hot or cold water… no leaks at all… and what is probably a 20 year old washer, is running like new again.
I’m guessing the injector is some sort of "anti-siphon" device, so "laundry water" can’t back into the water supply. But for that to happen, the water would have to run out the top of the machine… HIGHLY UNLIKELY. Probably some government-mandated crap, because of a one-in-a-billion chance of back-siphon. Gotta love bureaucrats!!!