No bake, broil or clean - Bad ERC or something else??

Oven Repair (including Ranges and Cooktops)
,
1

My SVE47500W had been operating normally until yesterday. When I got home in the evening, the clock on both the stove and microwave were blinking, as though there had been a power failure.

I reset the clock. Later, when I turned the oven on to bake at 400, the control unit came on, said that it was preheating and that the temp was 100. Shortly thereafter, it threw up an F5. I hit the cancel button then reset the circuit breaker to the stove.

I then reset the clock and turned the oven back on to bake at 400. Control panel said preheating and that the temp was 100. Ten minutes later, info was still the same. Opened up the oven door, both broiler element and oven element were cold. Cancelled operation and turned on broil, panel said broiler was on, but 5 minutes later, still no heat. Cancelled operation and turned on clean, level 2. Door lock moved into place, control panel showed end time of cleaning and that clean was in operation, fan turned on. Five minutes later, no heat in oven.

All timer and fan functions work. Cooktop elements work.

Unplugged oven and tested both legs of 220v line at receptacle, thinking that one leg was bad. Each leg tested out at 110v. I pulled out the oven element and tested for resistance, thinking that no resistance would equal a bad element. However resistance was totally off the scale, so I presume that the element is not a problem. Did not pull the broiler element.

Is the ERC the problem or is something else lurking in the shadowa?

3

Very likely the problem is an open high limit thermostat (#23 on the diagram). Check it for continuity.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=43260

Gene.

4

Gene,

I got in there through the fan cutout. That thermostat is definitely not reading as being open! Any other thoughts?

George

5

George,

Did you remove the wires from the thermostat before you tested it?

If you did it, then you have to measure the voltage to the Bake and Broil elements.

It’s better if you can pull the range out of the wall to gain the access from the back.

If you can not then pull the Bake element out and remove the wires from its terminals. Carefully measure the voltage between the each wire and the chassis ground while the control calls for Bake.

Do the same test with the Broil element and post the results with the wire colors.

Here are the wiring diagram for the range.

Gene.

6

Gene,

I did remove the wires from the stat before testing.

As far as measuring for voltages, what voltages am I looking for, and then where do we go? I have only a multitester on hand, without the benefit of alligator clips or any fancy electronic tools, and would like to get this oven repaired before the end of next week. Can you give me a link to a service/repair manual as well?

Thanks
George

7

George,

According to the [diagram](http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=43260&diagram_id=28558315"]wiring diagram[/URL] it sounds very unusual for both Bake and Broil relays on the relay board to become bad at the same time.

As you can see the common power leg (120 VAC) to both heating elements (L1) comes from the terminal block through the high limit thermostat (always ON) while each of the heating elements operates by its separate relay on the relay board. One of these relays turns ON the second 120 VAC power leg (L2) to the specific heating element depending on the mode chosen.

Because the high limit thermostat is good (per your test) I would suspect:

1/ Broken wire from the high limit thermostat to the heating elements
2/ Broken wire supplied L2 to the relay board from the terminal block
3/ Broken wire supplied L1 to the high limit thermostat from the terminal block

If you do not have enough equipments to measure the voltage at the heat elements wires, then you can check each of the above wires for continuity.

If there is nothing wrong, replace the relay board (#29 on the [URL="http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=43260&diagram_id=28558310)).

Gene.

8

— Begin quote from geebekazoo;339368

My SVE47500W had been operating normally until yesterday. When I got home in the evening, the clock on both the stove and microwave were blinking, as though there had been a power failure.

I reset the clock. Later, when I turned the oven on to bake at 400, the control unit came on, said that it was preheating and that the temp was 100. Shortly thereafter, it threw up an F5. I hit the cancel button then reset the circuit breaker to the stove.

I then reset the clock and turned the oven back on to bake at 400. Control panel said preheating and that the temp was 100. Ten minutes later, info was still the same. Opened up the oven door, both broiler element and oven element were cold. Cancelled operation and turned on broil, panel said broiler was on, but 5 minutes later, still no heat. Cancelled operation and turned on clean, level 2. Door lock moved into place, control panel showed end time of cleaning and that clean was in operation, fan turned on. Five minutes later, no heat in oven.

All timer and fan functions work. Cooktop elements work.

Unplugged oven and tested both legs of 220v line at receptacle, thinking that one leg was bad. Each leg tested out at 110v. I pulled out the oven element and tested for resistance, thinking that no resistance would equal a bad element. However resistance was totally off the scale, so I presume that the element is not a problem. Did not pull the broiler element.

Is the ERC the problem or is something else lurking in the shadowa?

— End quote

Geebe,

It sounds like you have a bad relay board, on the back of the oven.

AP4010045

The F5 code you recieved at the start indicates a bad oven temperature sensor , or a bad contact on the heat relay of the relay board.

Across the sensor wires, you should read 1050 to 1100 ohms resistance at room temperature, and 1350 ohms at 200 dgrs(boiling water).

You’ll need to be careful, you’re about to do a live 220 VAC voltage test

Turn the power to the range off,
Just like before, remove the bake element and slide it out so you can access the terminal ends(don’t disconnect the wires).
Program a bake cycle and temperature, give it 10 seconds,

Now check for 220 VAC across the element terminals,

120 VAC or less would indicate a broken / damaged wire to the element, or a bad contact on the relay board, and you’ll need to move the unit out of the cabinet, remove the back panel and check the wires.

Let us know how you did, when you’re done.

:slight_smile: :slight_smile: :slight_smile:

9

Definitely a bad relay board. Ordered one about an hour ago! Thanks for the help. Will ppost again after part received and installed.

10

Board delivered late yesterday afternoon. Installed it this morning. Everything now working fine! Thanks for everyone’s help!

P.S. JoeM – Ever seen a plugin 220V surge protector? /;=D

11

You are welcome. We are glad to be of service.

Gene.

12

— Begin quote from geebekazoo;342832

Board delivered late yesterday afternoon. Installed it this morning. Everything now working fine! Thanks for everyone’s help!

P.S. JoeM – Ever seen a plugin 220V surge protector? /;=D

— End quote

Geebe,

Great job,

Thanks for the update,

We’re glad you’re up and running.

As for a "plug in 220/240 VAC surge protector", No, I haven’t seen one, yet,
but I don’t get out as much as I used to.

Good Luck,
:slight_smile: :slight_smile: :slight_smile:

13

geebekazoo said:
…Ever seen a plugin 220V surge protector?..

There are a lot of them available. Just Google it.

Gene.

14

Yeah, there are. But I haven’t yet found an external one that I can use with my electric stove or clothes dryer.

15

The most reliable way is to install a whole house surge protector. You may want to call an electrician for an estimate.

Gene.

16

My wallet is painfully aware of that option! /;=D