My Roper clothes washer which is only a year and a half old will not go to the rinse or spin cycle automatically because the timer motor burnt out already. I contacted Whirlpool and they sent a repair service to my home at a cost of $65.00 to me to find this out. I was told the part would cost me $100.00 and the labor would be an additional $125.00 for a total of $225.00. I feel this is absurd for a washing machine that is only 1 1/2 years old and sold for $350.00. I feel ripped off by this cost and the cost of the repair estimate as well as the inferiority of this product and will never buy another Whirlpool product again. Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Did you measure the resistance of the timer motor. Most common failure is dirty contacts in the timer. If resistance is like 2.5 K ohm motor is ok. I would turn the timer dial around several times to clear the contacts. If your timer cover will come off, I would spray the contacts with non residue cleaning spray.
richappy said:
Did you measure the resistance of the timer motor. Most common failure is dirty contacts in the timer. If resistance is like 2.5 K ohm motor is ok. I would turn the timer dial around several times to clear the contacts. If your timer cover will come off, I would spray the contacts with non residue cleaning spray.
Thanks so much for your information. IT WORKED!!! Now why couldn’t the
repairman have done that instead of charging me $65.00 for a repair estimate of $225.00 and doing nothing? This service repair company (A&E Factory Repair Service of Winter Park, Florida) contracted by Whirlpool is nothing but a repair service scam. Whirlpool should choose reputable repair representatives if they want consumers to keep purchasing their products. I will never buy another Whirlpool product again.
Glad you fixed it. I personally would stick with Whirlpool, generally a good product, compared to others.
WHEN ON THE RINSE OR SPIN CYCLE THE WATER SEEMS TO BE COMING OUT OF THE TOP OF TUB and then onto my floor! Any Suggestions?
Also we ended up turning back our water level because of this which of course now my loads aren’t near as full and with a family of five laundry is taking too long to do Please Help!
when the brake pads wear out it will agitate and spin at the same time making water flood over, or its not pumping it out fast enough or the belt is shot or its overfilling in wash all of these things need checked eliminating it down to which it is does that make sense? lol
— Begin quote from Douglas Ressler;41002
WHEN ON THE RINSE OR SPIN CYCLE THE WATER SEEMS TO BE COMING OUT OF THE TOP OF TUB and then onto my floor! Any Suggestions?
Also we ended up turning back our water level because of this which of course now my loads aren’t near as full and with a family of five laundry is taking too long to do Please Help!
— End quote
Am having the same problem…Mine was coming out of the filler tube from the soap dish to the tub. I hope that helps.
Douglas Ressler said:
WHEN ON THE RINSE OR SPIN CYCLE THE WATER SEEMS TO BE COMING OUT OF THE TOP OF TUB and then onto my floor! Any Suggestions?
Also we ended up turning back our water level because of this which of course now my loads aren’t near as full and with a family of five laundry is taking too long to do Please Help!
The top of the transmission casing is connected to the basket, and during the spin cycle, the whole transmission rotates. Slippage in the belt, allowed by the tensioner, permits a "pre-pump" action, allowing the basket to come slowly up to speed. if not water will overflow to top of tub on to the motor caused shortage.
The bottom of the transmission casing is connected to a brake. This brake is activated by a helix in the hub of the transmission pulley. During the agitate cycle, the brake engages and prevents the transmission casing (and thus the basket) from turning. During the spin cycle, the helix mechanism releases the brake and the whole transmission spins around. happy fixing!!!