I think the dryer cycling t-stat may be bad. I have voltage at the top and bottom of the swith, but not on the sides ( violet wires). Would jumping these wires make the dryer heat? Everything else seems to checkout. I did notice that I only have 120v across the element. Would this t-stat have an effect on that?
Dryer will run with 120. needs full 240 for heater to work. flip the breaker and re-test for 240. after flipping the breaker you should get the full 240 unless the inner wires of the outlet burned up (unlikely but possible). usually a power surge or outage will cause half the line to trip so try flipping the breaker and that will probably fix your problem
Here are your parts
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?model=REX4634KQ0
Here is your wiring diagram
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Wiring%20Sheet%20-%203406688.pdf
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I think the dryer cycling t-stat may be bad. I have voltage at the top and bottom of the swith, but not on the sides ( violet wires). Would jumping these wires make the dryer heat?[/COLOR]
Do not jump these wires they are the internal heater and you will put a dead short across 120 volts.
If you have 240 volts across the operating thermostat’s contacts at room temperature then it is bad. It should be 0 volts.
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I did notice that I only have 120v across the element. Would this t-stat have an effect on that?[/COLOR]
If you have a true 120 volts across the heating element it should be heating up, though at half the watts of it’s normal operation.
PS: Just a thought, why your are testing with the unit plugged in and risking a shock, burn or worse when the heating circuit can usually be checked with the unit unplugged using resistance.