Washer fills, washes, spins, rinses and drains fine, but at some point during the operation, water is leaking out of the bottom left side (towards the front). The clothes are coming out clean and well spun, and the big gray rubber seal between the door and tub appears to be in tact. Washer is probably about 4 years old +/-. I have only found basic schematics so far and cannot find detailed/full schematics online. Any suggestions on what needs to be looked at (i.e.: the pump/filter, any other seals or hoses in that area?) would be appreciated. Thanks.
I am guessing there is a bad connection with an interior hose, or a small hole in one of the interior hoses. It is very difficult to find with these models and you may just have to change out the hoses to try and fix it.
Hi,
Frig and freezer work great except: Intermittently, when the unit goes into defrost cycle the freezer gets warm, ice melts together and refreezes, and things start to thaw. Defrost cycle lasts about thirty minutes. If I open the freezer door during this period, everything is wet and dripping. When the cycle finally ends everything works great again, sometimes for a few days.
I have replaced the two freezer thermisters. and the defrost terminator.
The problem remains the same.
My question is:
Can a faulty mother board cause this to happen or must it be the defrost terminator?
I hate to spend money on a new MB if it doesn’t need it.
I appreciate any help you can give.
Ken
Here are your parts
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?model=gss25jetccc
I am not sure what part you are calling the defrost terminator.
if you are referring to the defrost thermostat then it may not be a terminator.
On many GE units this is just an overheat safety device and does not open during a correct defrost cycle.
I cannot find a spec on it so cannot be sure but if it has a L100-65 or something like that then the first number after the L is the temperature where it opens. In the above it would be 100 degrees F which is way to warm to terminate a defrost cycle so it is just a safety device.
Since you have already changed the thermistor on the evaporator coils I would say you have e control board problem.
I understand now that the terminater is just a safety item. Since everything else has been eliminated I have ordered the main board.
Thanks for your help.
I have replaced the main board.
The problem has not changed.
During the defrost cycle warm air is coming out of the evaporator fan vent under the ice machine. It seems like way too much warm air.
Well I am stumped.
I pulled the following from the Q&A section of the defrost thermostat page.
The freezer on this unit goes in to defrost but terminates after everything becomes thawed to the point of water before it comes back on. I am guessing the defrost thermostat may be out of calibration. .
Answer, You will want to check the defrost thermistor for resistance. The resistance value of the thermistor should be 42.2K ohms at 0 degrees, 14.4K ohms at 37 degrees and 5K ohms at 77 degrees. If not in range then the sensor is faulty. If the thermistor checks ok then replace the main control board.
All I can think of is that you received a bad thermistor.
I would also check that you get the correct resistance at the control board, perhaps it is a bad connection/wire.
hi,
Thanks for the help.
The thermister checks out OK.
I think your suggestion to check for the correct resistance at the control board might be the answer.
I think what’s happening is that the the control board is not getting the thermister reading and so the only time it will shut down the defrost cycle is when it is so hot that the terminator is forced into action.
I check the resistance at the connection inside the frig and it is fine.
Is there a schematic on the board so I know where to check the resistance to make sure the connection in good all the way?
Found the info i needed. Thermisters check out at the control board.
I’ll see if working the connection in the frig has solved it.
Now I’m stumped.
Still doing the same thing.
It would make sense if the evaporator fan were to turn backwards during the defrost so as to keep the heat down where it is needed.
Is that supposed to happen?
If it is, maybe the fan is bad. If not then maybe a different placement if the thermister.
Pretty soon I will have a new frig if I keep replacing parts.
Now I’m stumped.
Me too!!!
This is why I detest GE fridges.
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It would make sense if the evaporator fan were to turn backwards during the defrost so as to keep the heat down where it is needed.
Is that supposed to happen?[/COLOR]
No. the idea is to keep the heat in behind the evaporator cover plate. Any air movement in the freezer will put warm air into the main compartment.
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If not then maybe a different placement if the thermister.[/COLOR]
You could try that.
The following may also be useful to you.
You will have to join the site and be logged in to be able to download it.
http://appliancejunk.com/forums/index.php?action=downloads;sa=downfile&id=55;t=1417635139
Hi again,
After all the messin around and new parts I think it’s working fine now.
What fixed it was changing the placement of the evaporator coil Thermister.
From the normal position on the left, I moved it to the right an positioned the thermister forward away from the back of the frig. I placed a wireless thermometer in the freezer by the fan and the temp during defrosts goes up to 27 or 28 before returning to normal. The ice is not melting anymore and all is well. I’ll keep my fingers crossed for a week or two.
Thanks for the help,
Ken
I will also keep my fingers crossed.