I have replaced the pump on my combo waasher/dryer. The drain hose is clear, fills and agitates, but when it gets to the spin cycle I get no spin and no drain…what else should I trouble shoot?
Does the motor run when it comes to the drain/spin?
Gene.
Where do I check that or what should I listen for…when the machine stops the agitation I hear nothing else…is that when I should hear a motor?
Sounds like the problem is a bad lid lock switch (#50 on the diagram). You have to remove the washer front panel to access it.
- The lid lock AP2108159
Here are the breakdown diagrams and http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=111038
Gene.
— Begin quote from castoju;417808
I have replaced the pump on my combo waasher/dryer. The drain hose is clear, fills and agitates, but when it gets to the spin cycle I get no spin and no drain…what else should I trouble shoot?
— End quote
Gene:
Is there a way I can test this…
What does a switch have to do with spin cycle and drain? r/ Judy:(
Judy,
The lid lock is a safety device. When it comes to the spin/drain, the power goes through the lid switch. It can be tested for continuity.
Gene.
— Begin quote from castoju;419122
OK…will test for continuity…
r/ Judy
— End quote
Gene…I checked continuity on the switch…it is fine…then I checked power to the pump…no juice…what do I do next? When I close the lid to the machine it agitates…r/Judy
Besides the switch there is a kind of lock motor which should lock the lid to supply back feed to the timer and start the pump and spin. The failure of this part is one of very common issues and I suggest just to replace it. In the worst case, if it would not fix the problem, you can just return the part (if you ordered it from APP).
Gene.
— Begin quote from Gene;420596
Besides the switch there is a kind of lock motor which should lock the lid to supply back feed to the timer and start the pump and spin. The failure of this part is one of very common issues and I suggest just to replace it. In the worst case, if it would not fix the problem, you can just return the part (if you ordered it from APP).
Gene.
— End quote
Would this be why there is no continuity in the wires on the pump…I tested the plug that comes out of the pump and the meter never moved or does the switch run power to the pump? Shouldn’t I have continuity even though the switch is bad?
I’m afraid I did not get it clear. Did you test the voltage to the pump motor or the motor itself for continuity?
Gene.
— Begin quote from Gene;421356
I’m afraid I did not get it clear. Did you test the voltage to the pump motor or the motor itself for continuity?
Gene.
— End quote
I tested the plug that comes out of the pump:o I disconnected the wire that goes to the pump and I tested the wires that is where I found no juice to that connection.
castoju said:
…I found no juice to that connection…
It can be because of a bad lid lock.
Gene.
— Begin quote from Gene;421443
It can be because of a bad lid lock.
Gene.
— End quote
so I gather you still suggest to replace the switch? That should run power to the pump? R/Judy
Yes, I do. There is nothing to loose for you.
Gene.
Order from you…or order from web site? Judy
Judy,
What did you mean "from me"? I personally DO NOT sell parts. Appliance Parts Pros does it. I’m just volunteer on this repair forum, helping people like you to fix their appliances.
If you would like to order the part, just click on the part number in the previous post and follow the instructions.
Gene.
:o OK…I’m going to order the switch…I hope this works…Judy
— Begin quote from Gene;422332
Judy,
What did you mean "from me"? I personally DO NOT sell parts. Appliance Parts Pros does it. I’m just volunteer on this repair forum, helping people like you to fix their appliances.
If you would like to order the part, just click on the part number in the previous post and follow the instructions.
Gene.
— End quote
I know this is an old one, but for anyone else who stumbles in here with a similar problem.
On mine, the wash load would get stalled at the drain/spin cycle. The tub would just sit there full of water. Here was my ‘fix’ after several failed attempts to trouble shoot. In my case, I finally determined that the washer fill door switch was not closing. While I had the front panel off, I noticed that lower the lid pushed the switch paddle down, but I was not hearing the micro switch part of the above posted switch and bracket assembly >click< closed. Forcing the paddle just a bit farther allowed the switch to close. Bottom line, the bracket / and or the entire cabinet frame had begun to sag just a bit, due to gravity (i guess) and time. I pushed the switch assembly up, bending the bracket, just a little bit. This raised the switch just enough to allow the door’s striker to be able to close the switch. This switch is a safety switch which prevents the tub from spinning with an open door. If the switch is still open when the door closes, the washer ‘thinks’ the door is still open. This condition should be easy to diagnose, but opening the washer door, the pushing a pencil or other non-conductive probe into the slot above the switch paddle. Don’t push too far as you could break the paddle. If you can make the cycle continue to the spin portion by doing this, you’ve diagnosed the problem. Just be sure to unplug the unit before opening up the cabinet and manipulating the switch assembly. The electrical connections are not guarded. You could get shocked if it’s still pluggedin.