I have a front-load Frigidaire washer that will not spin. All else is fine. I have already replaced the switch and the control board to no avail. Someone has now told me it is the motor. I don’t want to spend another $200 needlessly. HELP!
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I have a front-load Frigidaire washer that will not spin. All else is fine. I have already replaced the switch and the control board to no avail. Someone has now told me it is the motor. I don’t want to spend another $200 needlessly. HELP!
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Dupert,
You should also test the water level switch circuit and the air dome hose for clogs,
If the water level switch does not change to the "empty" state, the washer wont spin, Check that , before you replace the motor.
This washer agitates correctly…but sometimes will not spin. When It fails To spin, I can start it spinning by hand andnitbill get up to normal high speed spinning. Yet I can hold the drum from turning easily…
And when I do, the motor stops without any loud noise…and it does not draw any more amps ( monitoring it with amp probe inductive meter) standing still with no turning, as it does with it spinning the empty drum at full speed. In other words, I can stop the drum from spinning, with one hand and the motor doesn’t turn or belt slip. It’s like a very weak motor. But it does not hum or heat up or trip the breaker.
Check the voltage at the motor when running normally and again when you have it stopped by holding the tub. Check for 120vac across the blue and yellow wires as well as across the red and violet/white wires. If there is no significant voltage drop, you might try replacing the capacitor behind the control panel. This is a PCS motor so the capacitor is in use for both starting and running. If you have a voltage drop problem at the motor, you need to look for bad connections in the wiring or possibly a bad lid switch or timer (bad contacts).
Eric
Can’t get to machine just now, but I o recall a capacitor mounted on back panel of washer midway down with two red wires attached anyone of them going down to motor. Yet I just looked at the illustrated parts diagrams shown here at this site, and it appears there are two capacitors with the same part number shown…one as I saw…and one listed with the console and controls. Is this correct, two capacitors, same part number, one above in controls and the other down ner the motor? The lid switch has been bypass since the top is off. What is a PCS MOTOR? I have seen motors on other equipment have a bad start capacitor which cause the motor to not rotate,but ,the motor would make a loud humming sound and eventually trip the overload. This motor when stalled only draws approx 2.7 amps if I recall correctly, which is not more than when it’s spinning the empty tub at full speed.
Yes, I see now that there are two capacitors. I don’t have the tech sheet for that specific model. The tech sheet should be behind the control panel. Would be good if you could post a clear pic of it. I meant PSC motor which stands for permanent split capacitor which is same as capacitor start capacitor run. It means the capacitor is used for starting but remains in circuit during run as well. There is no centrifugal switch in the motor to disconnect the start winding. Not 100% sure about your washer, the tech sheet I was looking at is not exact one for your model. I believe yours is tech sheet 31-15551
Can’t say for sure without schematic, but I’m thinking this may be a true capacitor start capacitor run motor that uses two capacitors and centrifugal switch. During starting, the two capacitors are in parallel providing higher starting torque and then one is switched out by the centrifugal switch after motor is up to speed and then the other capacitor is used alone with the run winding. If there is no voltage drop issue, I would try replacing both capacitors. They are the same size.
Well, got a copy of mini-manual 31-15551 and it only shows one capacitor, no centrifugal switch in motor so it’s a PSC. Maybe 31-15551 is not the right manual for this washer. You’ll have to check the one behind the control panel.
Eric