Purchased new 12/1998. Washer stopped spinning. Based on other users’ posts & your replies, replaced drive belt & agitator coupling (orig. belt seemed ok but changed anyway; orig. agitator coupler was stripped of tabs (washer still agitated–go figure!); 1 dampening strap broken but replaced all 4) – these all work fine now. Everything in control panel plus lid switch seem fine (but untested yet). Washer fills/drains/agitates correctly; no obvious water/oil leaks around inner/outer pumps/tubes/hoses/motor/transmission or elsewhere inside/outside cabinet. Can manually move drive belt freely to the left–clutch & tranny pulley also freely move left. However, can only move belt, clutch & tranny pulley to the right about 1/4 turn before all stop–feels/sounds like something is blocking movement. When right-hand movement stops, hear "solid" noise like something is blocking pathway (i.e., I don’t hear anything that sounds loose/rattling). No unusual sounds when machine is running either. I also noted the clutch felt very hot after turning off washer from testng new belt & agitator coupler. Any ideas for the next step? Should I be looking further into the tub/basket/related assemblies? At first glance, hub nut & hub inner tub base look good(no corrosion/no worn edges on nut/can read lettering on nut/all look like clean aluminum). "Eyeballed" the tub/basket with flashlight and didn’t see anything stuck between either but didn’t disassemble yet. Machine has never been or needed servicing until now; machine has probably never been used to its full capability (maybe 4 small-medium loads monthly of lightly soiled items). Thanks in advance for your assistance.
Operate it with the front panel off. If the motor is turning when the cycle is in spin but the pulley won’ t turn then it is probably the transmission or the brakes which are inside the transmission casing.
Sidlink–thanks for reply; sorry for delay/holiday plans. Back to washer. Washer works perfectly on the Cottons & Regulars cycle; however, it still does not spin in Permanent Press or Delicates cycles (but agitates, fills, drains, and otherwise works in these cycles). I noticed during the Cottons & Regulars cycle that there is no longer a buring smell, but there is slight water leaking at base of tub where tranny connects (leaks only during spinning). New belt, agitator coupling & dampening straps looking good (recv’d lightening-fast from your shop, thx)…any ideas on what to check next?
If it is working for one cycle this means that there are no mechanical problems, so the likely suspect is the control unit. Try changing it out and see if that fixes things.
ok – what is the GE or Appliance Parts Pro part number for the control unit for GE Washer Model WJSR2080T8AA? Thanks.
Here is the part
If you buy from this site and the part does not fix things you can return it, see the returns policy for details and conditions.
Good luck, hope this fixes it.
SidFink43 – You Rock! Pulled the control unit; some tabs broken & it’s fried (read this forum’s "sticky note" on washers/testing continuity–bought my very own VOM today–beware all switches, here I come! Will order parts from your company…see, woman can fix, too…
Merry Christmas, SidLink – I’m back. Replaced the control unit (bought from this site) – got 1 load done perfectly, but machine stopped spinning again this morning. I removed the front cover during a test load and see the spinner basket moves a bit but it stops after a few seconds. I’m sure the new control unit is installed correctly. Next step?
Darn, hate it when that happens, you think you got it fixed and then it goes bad again.
If the motor continues to operate but the basket stops spinning then the problem is in the transmission/brakes.
If the motor has stopped, then given that you have a new control unit the problem is either with the motor or the wiring. Take a look at the control unit and make sure it did not burn out also, which could happen if there is a wiring issue.
Hey Sidlink – running another test load now. Filling/agitating fine. Motor is running–too soon in cycle to spin…while waiting, is there anything in the tub assembly that could interfere with the spin cycle? You mentioned wiring, which occurred to me, too. What wiring part can I research on your site that might be the solution? Any switches? If machine is agitating/filling ok, that should mean the new control unit did not burn out; or how can I tell by looking at it if it has been damaged?
The main thing you need to do is operate it with the front panel off to see if the motor is turning when it is supposed to be spinning. You need to do that before we can go any further.
Hi, SidFink – Ok, ran 2 test loads for you. Test #1 – motor, tranny and spin basket move sluggishly when they are supposed to but all stop after 3-4 rotations. In Test #2, which immediately followed Test #1 – motor/tranny/spin basket did not move at all when they were supposed to. Your thoughts?
It sounds like a motor problem, which is unusual but possible. First I would check out the wiring, look for a bad connection, or loose connection or any type of burned spot.
If it all checks out you can try replacing the motor. Again, if the part does not fix the problem you can return it. Your other choice is to replace the washer with a new machine, which is not a bad idea right now as prices are really low, at least in our area.
I’ll check wires. Been shopping for new machine, too. I have a small space so having trouble finding size at sale prices – needs to be 25" deep max, which is leading me to the special order desks. Maybe Santa will make a u-turn. Thanks for your help, I may be back.
Hi, SidFink – haven’t checked wiring yet but will. Have been reviewing our posts and comparing these to the instructions that I found in the control panel. I replaced the drive belt though the original didn’t look worn, but it was stretched out of shape compared to the new belt. The instruction sheet says belt tension is 1/2" deflection. I don’t know what that means. If I didn’t tighten the belt adequately, could this cause the spin cycle to perform inconsistently? If so, how do I tighten the belt – any special tool needed? Spinning wasn’t the original problem that I had with the machine–it was overfilling. I discovered a clamp had fallen off the hose that’s connected to the water level switch, which probably happened because one of the tub straps had broken from the same side where the hose should have been clamped down. so the tub was unbalanced when operating (likely for several months), which probably eventually stressed the agitator coupling that I found broken. I ordered the drive belt "just in case" when I ordered the coupling kit and installed it since I had it. I guess I’m stubborn but I can’t believe I’ve used this machine to its capacity even though I’ve had it 10 years – really, I only do about 2 small-large loads per month – delicates, linens and towels – I’ve run more test loads in the last 3 weeks than in 6 months, and this is the 2nd machine I’ve ever owned–the first was sold in good-excellent condition only because I didn’t want to move it, so it’s not like I mistreat my appliances (but apparently I am wordy and whine a lot)
There is no adjustment in the belt, and I don’t think it can stretch enough to affect peformance. It is possible your clutch is the problem but as you have said the motor has stopped this really points to a motor problem.
Checked wires – nothing loose or burned so far, all seemed to be fitting snuggly in housing to motor, switches, etc. With the machine off, the clutch turns freely clockwise, but stops when turned counter-clockwise – is this normal? The clutch pin turns freely in either direction. The clutch is really hot to the touch when the machine agitates. What do you think?
I think I am where I was earlier, that the motor is the problem.
Happy New Year SidFink – machine is working, again. Thanks to an old post of yours from Dec 2010: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/washer-repair/148991-ge-washer-not-washing-clothes.html
In the older post, you referenced a "selection switch" which likely is the same as my "wash/spin speed" switch. Checked the wires on my switch and Eureka!–from that angle I spotted a couple of twisted/pinched wires leading into the new control unit, probably my fault from tinkering with stuff I don’t know about. Unpinched the wires/reconnected the control unit; gave the motor and clutch a tap with a screw driver handle (a novel idea stolen from another poster)…machine is spinning like new for now. I’ve washed everything but my cats; am doing the happy dance, and will keep shopping for a new machine with this window of opportunity. You helped save me the price of a service call(s), so I thank you very much for all of your help and patience. Now, let’s hope my dryer behaves!
Well fantastic, what a great New Year’s present. Glad you got it fixed, good luck and thanks for updating us. It is very helpful to folks who read this Forum, and there are a lot of them.