[SIZE=3]Looking to get some feedback with a problem I’m having. The washer will fill and agitate cycle fine, but will not spincycle. I took the machine apart, replaced the tub bearing and the transmission(the old one had bearing falling out of it). I put it all back togetheragain ran it through a cycle, and everything is fine right up to the final spincycle. Again, nothing! It sounds like it’s trying to go into the cycle, but thedrum just never starts spinning. Motor is not turning at that point either. Motor is supposed to be clutchless. Not sure what to check next.[FONT="Times New Roman","serif"][/FONT][/SIZE]
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You say, it sounds like it is trying to go into spin cycle but motor is not turning. Is the motor humming? Has power to it? Or all quiet?
Eric
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You say, it sounds like it is trying to go into spin cycle but motor is not turning. Is the motor humming? Has power to it? Or all quiet?
Eric
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Hey Eric - I’m not feeling a hum. Since the motor is 2-speed, is it possible to be fine during agitation cycle, but not spin? Can I throw a meter on it to check during spin?
Check for 120vac across motor white/red and blue wires for high speed or white/red and white for low speed. If your not getting power there during spin, looks like a bad control board.
Eric
Thanks Eric, I’ll check for the 120v when I get home this evening. I’m assuming you mean to unplug the molex connector at the motor and check there. Does someone even offer a replacement control board if that is the culprit? If I have low-speed and high-speed 120v at the connector, I’m guessing the motor is the issue.
You should check the voltage with connector plugged in. You can pull the weatherproofing material out from the connector to gain access to put your meter probes into the back side of the connector. See photo. If your not hearing anything at the motor, I doubt the motor is the problem though. The control board is still available.
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/ge-control-asm-wh12x10323-ap3892692.html
Eric
Hey Eric - thanks for help. When I got home, I hooked up my multimeter to red/white and blue wires on the connector, put the selector on "Final Spin", and hit the start button. I got 120vac on the meter and eventually the motor started to feel warm, but was not turning. So, I’m assuming at this point I’m looking at a motor? Just another quick question - should I be able to "hand turn" the drum (either clockwise or counter clockwise) when I’m in final spin mode?
Are you able to rotate the motor pulley by hand in both directions? One direction should cause the agitator to move back and forth, the other should release the brake and cause spin. Also, while in spin cycle, check for 120vac across the motor red wire and black wire. This is the start winding for high speed. Also try removing the belt and see if motor will work when spin is selected. I don’t think it’s the motor because the same windings are used for agitation and spin. The only difference is that the polarity to the start winding is reversed to make the motor start in the opposite direction. You can get the tech sheet out from inside the control panel. It will tell you how to enter service mode and from there you can test high and low speed agitation as well as high speed spin. You should not normally be able to rotate the basket by hand as the brake is always applied except when your in spin cycle. In spin cycle when the motor begins to rotate, the brake release mechanism at the bottom of the transmission should release the brake. If you are getting 120vac to both the run winding and start winding and you are able to make the basket rotate by hand when rotating the motor pulley by hand, you may have a faulty start capacitor. This is used to provide additional torque to the motor. More torque is required for spin than is required for agitation.
Eric
Hey Eric - I’m only able to turn in one direct to move the agitator, locks when I try the other way. I still need to pull the wiring schematic and check the red & black (start winding) for 120vac. Also still need to pull the belt and check. So, I’ll get back to you later on those items. If the start capacitor seems to be the issue, then we are back to the troubleshooting or replacing the control board? Thanks
The capacitor is a separate device but if you can’t rotate the motor pulley in the spin direction by hand, then that is a problem. Doesn’t make sense though since you have replaced the transmission. It should be initially easy to rotate the pulley in spin direction. Once the brake has released, it will be more difficult but still relatively easy as long as you use two hands to keep the rotation going. As soon as you stop, the brake will grab. Here’s a photo showing what should happen. The cam dog should rotate towards the brake hub dog and this should release the brake allowing the entire transmission to start rotating.
Eric
Hey Eric - sorry for the delay. Vac update: I put the probes across the High Speed (red/white and blue) and hit the "final spin" button. The meter jumped to 120v, then a heard a click from the control panel, and the voltage went to 0. Did that a couple of times, then it stayed at constant 120. So, I’m not sure it the timers were doing something during the spin cycle or not.
Put the probes across start winding (red & black) and hit the spin. Only registered 35-40vac.
Notes on hand turning the pulley. I can turn clock-wise to move the agitator, but I cannot turn counter clock-wise. I can move it a little bit until the cam dog hits the brake hub dog and that’s it. Not a lot of room down there to really put some muscle into it. I don’t think I was supposed to do anything to the new transmission/brake before I put everything back together, so now I’m really perplexed as to why it wont move.
I’m going to pull the belt of tomorrow and see what that does to the motor. I’m guessing I have enough room to remove/reinstall the big pulley and belt. I might have to take it apart again. Thoughts
Thanks, Mike
Well, not sure on the voltage readings your getting but the fact that you cannot rotate by hand in spin direction is a problem. To take the belt off, you can just loosen the four motor mounting nuts and slide the motor back.
Eric
Hey Eric - Was away for a few days. I loosened the 4 motor bolts, pushed the motor back, and removed the belt. The motor spins fine on Spin Cycle. I went ahead and removed the tub assembly, took everything apart and rechecked stuff like the nylon washer between the transmission and tub bearing; the flange gasket where the 4 trans bolts to the support bracket. After putting everything back together, I am able to turn the tranmission down at the counterweight, but it is extremely stiff to rotate by hand. Since the old unit came apart in my hands during disassembly, I’m not sure how easy (or not) the old transmission rotated. Should this thing be so hard to turn? Is there any kind of lubricant/grease that could/should be applied to help the transmission rotate easier? There sure doesn’t seem to be anyway to allow any more "slack" once it’s all bolted together. Thanks.
No, you cannot rotate the transmission easily because the brake is always applied unless the transmission pulley is rotated in the spin direction. The part between the transmission and the support bracket is the brake pad, not a gasket. I don’t know what to tell you at this point. You can try running the machine with the tub completely removed as in this video to at least eliminate any problem with the tub or tub bearing. Your motor is a little different and doesn’t have the clutch like the one in the video but everything else is essentially the same.
Eric
Hey Eric - followed directions on the video. Tried to go into Spin Cycle, but it just seems like the motor doesn’t have enough power to turn the transmission. I can help to try and turn the unit, and it actually starts to go, but again, just doesn’t seem to have enough motor to make it spin like it does in the video. The meter still only shows about 35vac across the red and black wires when spin is activated. I’m at a loss as well. Not sure if I should order a control board, or a new motor. I really appreciate all of your expert advise. Thanks
The fact that you can’t operate in spin by hand (rotating motor pulley with belt on) indicates a mechanical problem. Where did you get the transmission from? Sounds like the brake release mechanism at the bottom of the transmission is not working properly.
Eric
Hey Eric - The new unit was purchased from Caribbean Appliance Parts (through Amazon). Guess I learned from that one. I have just sent an email back to them, requesting assistance. Now I just need to figure out if I want another unit from them, or just get a refund and order the part from AppliancePartPros. I’m fairly sure you can purchase/install just the brake spring, but I don’t know if I want to go that route just in case there is something else going on with the unit as a whole. Thanks
As far as I know, there are no individual parts available for this transmission. While that spring on the bottom does play a part in operating in spin mode, it is not the brake spring. There are actually 3 brake springs but you can’t see them. If that spring on the bottom, which is called the LGS (limited grip spring) was broken or slipping, the washer would just agitate instead of spin.
I have the same type of washer so I just took a video to show you how easy the transmission should rotate when you rotate the motor pulley. At first I just rotate the pulley, then I grab the belt and pull it. It is relatively easy to do this but as soon as you stop movement the brake grabs. There must be constant force from the motor and belt to keep it going but it doesn’t really take that much force.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FeBouir_SkQ
Eric
Hey Eric - thanks for the video. Mine sure doesn’t turn like that! I must’ve gotten one with some brake issues. I’m in contact with the company’s technical department to figure out the next step. I’m hoping they just tell me to send it back, but I’m figuring they’ll probably have some questions and some things they want me to check. I’ll probably just send them a video showing them how this unit just doesn’t rotate the way it’s supposed to. Thanks