The ice water dispenser quit dispensing. There seems to be a switch that is activated when you push against the padded bracket with a glass. Is there a pump? How does this all work?
I also cannot figure out how to remove the cover and/or cover insert so I can look at the inner workings. How do I remove them? What is the recommended diagnosis and/or repair?
— Begin quote from Ludwig;347232
The ice water dispenser quit dispensing. There seems to be a switch that is activated when you push against the padded bracket with a glass. Is there a pump? How does this all work?
I also cannot figure out how to remove the cover and/or cover insert so I can look at the inner workings. How do I remove them? What is the recommended diagnosis and/or repair?
— End quote
Ludwig,
It’s not that elaborate a system,
When you press the water dispenser paddle, or the icemaker calls for water to fill the mold, the system activates the solenoid(s) on the fill valve(on the back of the refrigerator),
The fill valve opens and allows water in.
The icemaker has a preset fill time, and allows only so much water to enter the ice maker.
The water dispenser works slightly differently, when the valve opens, the water is released, goes through the filter, then to the water tank, from the tank to the dispenser. If things are working properly, it will dispense water as long as you hold the paddle in.
Now,
Do you hear a switch"click" noise when you press the paddle, and the same when you release it ?
To access the internal components of the dispenser assembly,
First turn power off or unplug the power cord.
On the bottom edge of the dispenser facia, you will see two slots molded into the plastic edge.
With a flat blade screwdriver, and a pad of some sort to protect the door panel(some people use the drip grille) pry out or twist the screwdriver, until the bottom of the panel "unsnaps", then carefully push up on the panel, to unhook the tabs from the dispenser housing, and disconnect any harness between the touch pad and control board.
You now have access to the switch mounting bracket assembly,
Remove the two screws that hold the switch bracket to the dispenser housing and carefully move the assembly out to access the switches,and wiring.
Good Luck,
Before I start taking things apart I wanted to clarify one point. I do hear a "switch click" noise when I push the water dispenser paddle arm. Is that indicative a switch problem or does it point to something else?
I know that when the ice maker needs water I can hear the flow for a dew seconds so apparently the solenoid is working. Is that a reasonable conclusion?
— Begin quote from Ludwig;348427
Before I start taking things apart I wanted to clarify one point. I do hear a "switch click" noise when I push the water dispenser paddle arm. Is that indicative a switch problem or does it point to something else?
I know that when the ice maker needs water I can hear the flow for a dew seconds so apparently the solenoid is working. Is that a reasonable conclusion?
— End quote
Ludwig,
Yes, if the icemaker makes ice, and you can hear the water flowing for 5-7 seconds, the icemaker fill valve solenoid is working.
But you have a dual valve in the refrigerator(on the back of the unit),
One solenoid works the icemaker water supply, and the other operates the water dispenser solenoid.
As a general rule, if you can hear the switch "click", there’s a 80% chance the switch is OK.
So,
First, check the water tank/reservoir to see if it is frozen or clogged( you’ll need to remove the lower shelves and crisper drawers to see/check it.
If you have access to a multi meter, and a helper,
Set the meter up to read 120 VAC and have someone press the water dispenser paddle, and see if you get 120 VAC across the two wires to the red solenoid , if you get the voltage, you have a bad fill valve, if you don’t get the voltage, you’ll need to check the switch and wiring(especially at the freezer door hinge wire harness assembly.
I have read your replies but need to go a step further please. I have a GE GSL25JFPA side x side. Thinking the water not dispensing (ice does)was a problem with the valve back/bottom, I have replaced it without results.
I checked the red solenoid and am getting around 12 to 14 volts and when my wife releases the door dispenser for a fraction of a second my meter will jump up in voltage.
Just in case I could see some kind of issue in the door I took the cover off, checked continuity on the switch - was OK, and don’t see any other issues.
So, could my water line have frozen or may there be a problem with the small circuit board I removed from the door. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
Kerry
— Begin quote from FourMaxK1;351258
I have read your replies but need to go a step further please. I have a GE GSL25JFPA side x side. Thinking the water not dispensing (ice does)was a problem with the valve back/bottom, I have replaced it without results.
I checked the red solenoid and am getting around 12 to 14 volts and when my wife releases the door dispenser for a fraction of a second my meter will jump up in voltage.
Just in case I could see some kind of issue in the door I took the cover off, checked continuity on the switch - was OK, and don’t see any other issues.
So, could my water line have frozen or may there be a problem with the small circuit board I removed from the door. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
Kerry
— End quote
Kerry,
You could have a frozen water tank, but based on your post,
I’m real sure you have a bad mother board, you should be getting 120 VAC at the solenoid, and the fact your getting voltage, to the valve tells me the dispenser board and the switches are working proper.
— Begin quote from Joe / APP Team;353466
Kerry,
I’m real sure you have a bad mother board, you should be getting 120 VAC at the solenoid, and the fact your getting voltage, to the valve tells me the dispenser board and the switches are working proper.
— End quote
thanks, I’ll revisit my initial diagnosis and your suggestion on my next day off. will advise. thanks again.
You could have a frozen water tank, but based on your post,
— Begin quote from FourMaxK1;353672
thanks, I’ll revisit my initial diagnosis and your suggestion on my next day off. will advise. thanks again.
You could have a frozen water tank, but based on your post,
— End quote
OK,
We’ll keep an eye for your next post,
Good Luck,
wrong topic, sorry.
Hey, thanks for the input. I did find continuity at the switch. I think my concern may be tied to the voltage at the solenoid. Haven’t had a chance to go back and check yet. Thx again.
— Begin quote from FourMaxK1;353672
thanks, I’ll revisit my initial diagnosis and your suggestion on my next day off. will advise. thanks again.
You could have a frozen water tank, but based on your post,
— End quote
Joe / APP team
Yup, I double checked the voltage to the red solenoid and when my wife pushes the water dispenser lever I am getting anywhere from 2 - 12 volts. When she releases the lever it momentarily spikes to 108 - 118 v. Do you still think it is the mother board. Thx.
— Begin quote from FourMaxK1;357511
Joe / APP team
Yup, I double checked the voltage to the red solenoid and when my wife pushes the water dispenser lever I am getting anywhere from 2 - 12 volts. When she releases the lever it momentarily spikes to 108 - 118 v. Do you still think it is the mother board. Thx.
— End quote
FourMax,
Yes,
I still am pretty sure you have a bad "motherboard".
I would estimate, approximately 90% of the failures, on your type and brand of refrigerator, usually trace back to the mother board.
With the tests and checks you’ve made, I’m 90 % sure you’ll need the board.
Thanks Joe,
I guess ordering the motherboard is cheaper than calling the appliance guy! thx again.
— Begin quote from FourMaxK1;358918
Thanks Joe,
I guess ordering the motherboard is cheaper than calling the appliance guy! thx again.
— End quote
FourMax,
Based on what I hear, Yes, it’ll be less expensive, in the long run.
Just remeber to unplug the machine first, also take your time and be careful,
Let us know how things go.
— Begin quote from Joe / APP Team;359482
FourMax,
Based on what I hear, Yes, it’ll be less expensive, in the long run.
Just remeber to unplug the machine first, also take your time and be careful,
Let us know how things go.
— End quote
Will do!!!
— Begin quote from FourMaxK1;359754
Will do!!!
— End quote
OK,
Will keep an eye out for your next post.
Good Luck,
Joe / app team,Well I put in a new mother board and no luck. I can hear the red solenoid click & the water line jump, but no water through the dispenser.
I rechecked the voltage to the solenoid and it is irregular - mostly around 2.3 v when the switch is activated with jumps in v anywhere from 5 -13 v when the switch is released.
I pulled the switch out of the door again and it is getting continuity. Icemaker still works fine. Any thoughts?
— Begin quote from FourMaxK1;368580
Joe / app team,Well I put in a new mother board and no luck. I can hear the red solenoid click & the water line jump, but no water through the dispenser.
I rechecked the voltage to the solenoid and it is irregular - mostly around 2.3 v when the switch is activated with jumps in v anywhere from 5 -13 v when the switch is released.
I pulled the switch out of the door again and it is getting continuity. Icemaker still works fine. Any thoughts?
— End quote
FourMax,
I’m sorry, I should have got you to the most simple checks first.
Now, it sounds like you’ve got a frozen water reservoir, or clogged filter in the water dispenser system.
You said you can hear the red solenoid click and the water line jump,
That indicates the valve is openning, and water is flowing as far as it can, or until it hits the clog or frozen water tank.
:o :o :o
Ok, I have checked the exploded views of the fridge and I don’t see a water storage tank/reservoir - where is it?
Secondly, you mention possible clog. This happened coincidentally when I replaced the filter, but I used the bypass and the same result.
So how do I thaw or unplug the lines? Thx
— Begin quote from FourMaxK1;368710
Ok, I have checked the exploded views of the fridge and I don’t see a water storage tank/reservoir - where is it?
Secondly, you mention possible clog. This happened coincidentally when I replaced the filter, but I used the bypass and the same result.
So how do I thaw or unplug the lines? Thx
— End quote
Max,
You have a water reservoir coil, it’s located on the back wall of the fridge compartment behind the crisper drawers. It looks like a water fill tube all coiled up.
In the mean time, I’ll check to see if there were any tech notes about failed filter housings.
