Whirlpool Dishwasher stopped midcycle, did not drain, not powering on

I started the dishwasher the other night and when I checked to see if it was done since it got quiet, I opened it thinking it was on the dry cycle and noticed the water did not drain. I tried re-setting it (cancel cycle) to drain it and the LED lights were not coming on, it was not getting power. I checked the outlets and made sure they were working along with the main circuit breaker. All was good. I did some research and it said I need a new fuse…I am not sure if that is correct and if it is what this fuse looks like. Please HELP!:confused:

Here are your parts
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?model=DU945PWPT0

The fuse is Item 4 in the "Frame and console" section.

Remove it and check it with a meter.

Not uncommon for these to go hence the kit with the harness.

Thanks! Can I take it to Home Depot or Lowers and test it? I don’t have a meter.

I do not know if they will test it for you!!!

I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity

  1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
  2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
  3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.