My dryer won’t start during dryer mode. It is a pretty basic dryer. It usually runs and heats during dry mode, but it has stopped. The timer runs all during the cycle, but the only time the motor runs, and the drum actually turns, is during "finish guard" mode, which is an intermittent cycle that just tumbles the clothes for a brief period after the dry cycle has completed. I have checked the thermostats, and have continuity on all but one, which is called the "cycling thermostat", and has four terminals with two red wires and two purple ones. What does this thermostat do? Should I have continuity between the reds, and continuity between the purples. Haven’t gotten to the igniters and flame sensors yet. Maybe this weekend.
Do you know of a way I can check the timer, without buying a new one first? Could it possibly be the little circuit board on the unit?
Do you know of a way I can check the timer, without buying a new one first?
The following may help.
Unplug the unit.
Ste the timer to mid scale any cycle.
BK to BU contacts on the timer should be closed.
I am pretty sure the above are OK and the problem is with the following.
Check the Tan to White contacts. They should be closed fo timed try, air dry and first part of permanent press cycles.
Last part of the permanent press cycle, they switch to close the Tan to BY intermittently to give you the "finish guard"
[COLOR="Blue"]
Could it possibly be the little circuit board on the unit?[/COLOR]
I do not think so, all this controls is the timer motor.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
- Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
- Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
- When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.
Thanks. I’m in the electrical business, so I own a couple meters. I will check what you suggested.
You sir, are a Godsend!! That’s exactly what it is!! Checked those contacts, and they were open. Jumpered them out, plugged it in, pressed "start", and viola!! Started humming away. Took the cover off the front of the timer, and I can see exactly where it failed. Thanks a bunch!!!
You are welcome
Have a Happy New Year!!
And thanks for getting back to us. Now when others search for a similar problem they will see what actually worked instead of just suggestions about what could be the cause.