I am looking for advice/help. My kids spilt hot water onto the cotrol knobs on this unit. A short while later the spark stopped working on one side totally and on the other side it doesn’t work for one of the burners. When you turn on either of the right burners, the spark igniter activates on the other side and won’t ignite the proper burner, allowing gas to flow out and creatring a dangerous situation. On the left side one of the burners won’t activate the spark igniter and the other one will. I am thinking that it is either the spark modulator or individual spark swithces. Any advice? Could it be anything else?
Thanks
Here is a parts breakdown for your appliance: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=240284
Many times you can just remove the power to the appliance and let it dry out over the next few days. If its been a while start with testing the spark switches for continuity.
Click for spark swicthes: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=2969054
First, turn off the power to the stove. To test the switches remove the wires and test for continuity, they should only have continuity at the point where LITE is on the knob. So when you turn the knob to the LITE position, as if you were starting the burner, the switch should have continuity.
Check for any burnt or loose wires (bad grounds) of course. Make sure the tips of the igniters are clean and the spot on the burner where it arcs to must also be clean.
If the switches, wires and igniters check out then check out the module. If the spark module is getting power and you turn the knob to LITE it should send the spark to the igniter. If not the replacing the module may be be in order.
Click for spark module: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=3139214
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[LEFT][SIZE=3]Disconnect power first 3. Check or change the lid switch. Unplug the washer. Check the actuator on the lid that operates the lid switch to see if broken. [pictures are here.](http://www.applianceaid.com/images/lwawp-console-screws.jpg"Picture.remove the]Open the console[/URL] of the washer. After removing the screws, the console will lift up and hinge back. Disconnect the plug going to the lid switch. Check the lid switch [lid closed] with an ohm meterfrom the wire plug-in leading to the switch. If no continuity, replace the lid switch. You will need to cabinet to replace the switch. There are only a couple screws holding the lid switch assembly and a ground wire connection to the cabinet. Reassemble the washer and test the operation. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]Unplug washer, remove the two consol screws and tilt console back, remove cabinet clips, unlock lid switch block and then remove the cabinet. Remove the lid switch mounting screws, disconnect ground wire and remove lid switch assembly. Compare old switch to the new one. If the plastic sleeve of the new switch is longer, break off at the score mark. Pull wire partially out of sleeve before shortening sleeve. If the sleeve had to be shortened, the wires must be looped to take up the excess wire. Use supplied wire tie from the new kit. Install new switch assembly. New lid switch [URL="http://www.applianceaid.com/pictools/dirldswitch.JPG)[/SIZE][/LEFT]
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![http://www.applianceaid.com/images/lwawp-console-screws.jpg"](http://www.applianceaid.com/images/lwawp-console-screws.jpg"){kind=link}
I greatly appreciate the video posted. I was able to easily buy the part from this site, it arrived the next day, and the replacement took me a total 20 minutes. My washer was not as clean as the sample (lol) so I had a tad bit of clean up to do on the inside of the cabinet before replacing. Without the video I would not have felt confident to replace the switch. Thank you!!
— Begin quote from jreythomas@hotmail.com;80
My lid switch has broken off of the machine, and I am having troubles getting inside to change it out. Please walk me through the steps in order for me to get to the faulty switch.
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go to youtube and enter info and see video to remove lid switch
