Hi All,
My Whirlpool dishwasher DU890SWLQ0 is acting up. The motor is not started, and the water does not drain.
The motor has 4 pins, I tested continuity on the motor and it seem to be fine.
Please advise what else do I need to test?
Thanks
Vua
Hi Vua,
Does the motor hums?
If it does then the problem is a stuck pump which has to be replaced in such case. In order to do it the dishwasher has to be removed from the cabinet.
- The part number for the pump & motor assembly is AP3044239
Here are the break down diagrams for the Whirlpool dishwasher http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?diagram_id=131274&&model_id=504624
Gene.
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…Now can you elaborate about "W-V", "GY", "Y", "BU-W"…
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These are the colors of the wires plugged into the motor plug. "W-V" - white with violet strip, "GY" - grey, "Y" - yellow and "BU-W" - blue with white strip. You have to check for continuity between the motor terminals according to the wire colors on the plug.
Gene.
— Begin quote from Gene;25948
These are the colors of the wires plugged into the motor plug. "W-V" - white with violet strip, "GY" - grey, "Y" - yellow and "BU-W" - blue with white strip. You have to check for continuity between the motor terminals according to the wire colors on the plug.
Gene.
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Hi Gene and All,
I checked for continuity at the motor terminals according to your instruction, and all 4 for pins have continuity to each other. So is this normal or something wrong with the motor?
.
Hello,
We notice the problem, because the refrigerator was not cooloing enough, the milk keep getting warmer. Also noticed the ice melting on the freezer, but the bottom area was frozen. I did suspected to be the heater assembly, but aftyer I got to them I was able to read about 11 ohms, I think it is OK, the other part that could cause the problem could be the
defrost timer, but I have no clue on how to check/test this unit.
Could it be possible to get some ideas, before deciding which part I need to get/buy.Thanks for your assistance/Help. Hector
If the heater checks out ok and the defrost thermostat works it is the timer. You can turn the timer till it clicks and check to see if the heater comes on. If it does the timer isn’t running. Part 257 on this diagram. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getSubComp.pd?diagramPageId=00007&documentId=00053650&modelNumber=3639512585&productCategoryId=0165000&brandId=0582&modelName=&backToLink=Return+to+part+list
When you removed the heater, were the evaporator coils clogged up with ice.
If not then your defrost system is probably OK.
Check that the evaporator (freezer) fan is running.
Note some units have a door switch so the fan shuts off when the door is open so you may have to press this.
The fan is required to equalize the temperatures in the freezer and also force cold air into the fresh food section.
Woodchukie,
When I did finally opened the panel the lower section of the coils were frozen. The upper section was not. They did defrost during the troubleshooting process. My question or doubt is what will be a real reading on each of the heater resistances, they look like a spring inside a glass tube. Presently the coils are frosted, but I still don’t get enough cold air to the fridge. Even thou I have not installed the freezer back panel, just in case, it is not easy. I did turn some the defrost control knob, it only turns one way, but I am clueless on how to check it, I could not find an electrical diagram on the unit. Thanks for the hints. Hector
— Begin quote from woodchuckie;69094
If the heater checks out ok and the defrost thermostat works it is the timer. You can turn the timer till it clicks and check to see if the heater comes on. If it does the timer isn’t running. Part 257 on this diagram. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getSubComp.pd?diagramPageId=00007&documentId=00053650&modelNumber=3639512585&productCategoryId=0165000&brandId=0582&modelName=&backToLink=Return+to+part+list
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Woodchukie I posted my next steps, can you check , Please, Hector
As mentioned in denman’s post, the fan has to be running to distribute the cold air.
If that is an uneven frost pattern on the coils then that is a sign of low freon in the system, requireing a tech.
When you turn the defrost timer, you should feel or hear a click which is either turning the heater on or off. Watch the heater. It will glow red when it’s on. During the troubleshooting you said it melted the ice. Did all of it melt and you now have the normal light frosting or did it not melt all of the ice.
woodchuckie said:
As mentioned in denman’s post, the fan has to be running to distribute the cold air.If that is an uneven frost pattern on the coils then that is a sign of low freon in the system, requireing a tech.
When you turn the defrost timer, you should feel or hear a click which is either turning the heater on or off. Watch the heater. It will glow red when it’s on. During the troubleshooting you said it melted the ice. Did all of it melt and you now have the normal light frosting or did it not melt all of the ice.
Woodchukie,
I did hear the defrost control turn and click, it only goes one way. How to checck it is another story.
But I was not looking into the heater to see if it glows I will look at it tonite when I get home. The melting could have being caused by having the unit OFF, but i did check it before coming to school and it was an even frost on all coils (I have the back panel open, to continue my troubleshooting) Maybe that is why there was nothing frozen this evening or not that much coolnes in the refrigerator, not like this morning that evrything at the bottom of the freezer was frozen and the refrigerator was warm.