3 bad ERCs??

[bhkrause]

Hi. I’ve recently gone through 3 ERCs on my Amana oven. The first time, the original 8 year old panel threw an F1-1 (temp over range), so I replaced the temp sensor. That worked for about a day, then the ERC started throwing F1-7 errors. I ordered a new ERC, which also gave F1-7 errors (and the oven light didn’t work, and neither did the Oven Timer Cook time button). I cleaned the ribbon cable but it still works intermittently. I called AppliancepartsPros, who very quickly sent out another ERC, but this one won’t work at all, simply throws an F1-7 and won’t light the oven at all.

I took the back off of the oven and checked all the wiring that I could see - there don’t seem to be any broken/cracked/burnt wires that I can see. Do these boards have quality issues from the manufacturer, or is there something else I can test?

thanks!

[Joe_APP_Team]

— Begin quote from bhkrause;276505

Hi. I’ve recently gone through 3 ERCs on my Amana oven. The first time, the original 8 year old panel threw an F1-1 (temp over range), so I replaced the temp sensor. That worked for about a day, then the ERC started throwing F1-7 errors. I ordered a new ERC, which also gave F1-7 errors (and the oven light didn’t work, and neither did the Oven Timer Cook time button). I cleaned the ribbon cable but it still works intermittently. I called AppliancepartsPros, who very quickly sent out another ERC, but this one won’t work at all, simply throws an F1-7 and won’t light the oven at all.

I took the back off of the oven and checked all the wiring that I could see - there don’t seem to be any broken/cracked/burnt wires that I can see. Do these boards have quality issues from the manufacturer, or is there something else I can test?

thanks!

— End quote

BK,

The F1-7 error code indicates the ERC is not seeing the touchpad.

The two non functioning buttons would also be an indication.

here’s a copy of the Tech Data Sheet,

http://servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/32076501.pdf

We are not aware of any defects in that ERC, but we can forward your concerns to the manufacturer, if you wish.

Is this the part you orderred ?

[part]AP4103988[/part]

Good Luck,

[bhkrause]

That’s probably the original part number. I think it was superseded by 77001203.

[bhkrause]

and now it’s beeping randomly then showing f1-8 - shorted key. I have to push the oven button then cancel the oven, then the keyboard works again.argh.

[Joe_APP_Team]

— Begin quote from bhkrause;277573

and now it’s beeping randomly then showing f1-8 - shorted key. I have to push the oven button then cancel the oven, then the keyboard works again.argh.

— End quote

BK,

I took the liberty, and forwarded our thread to the APP Research Team last Friday.

Hopefully, we will hear from them soon, and get you taken care of.

As far as I can tell(my own research), You’ve got the correct part number AP4103988 / 77001203 / 3205903W.

Hopefully, The manufacturer Can give us an explanation or reccomendation.

Will drop you a line as soon as we get some information.

[Joe_APP_Team]

— Begin quote from Joe / APP Team;278032

BK,

I took the liberty, and forwarded our thread to the APP Research Team last Friday.

Hopefully, we will hear from them soon, and get you taken care of.

As far as I can tell(my own research), You’ve got the correct part number AP4103988 / 77001203 / 3205903W.

Hopefully, The manufacturer Can give us an explanation or reccomendation.

Will drop you a line as soon as we get some information.

— End quote

BK,

Just got a response from the Reasearch Team,

The Manufacturer is Not Aware of any problems with the part (AP4103988 / 77001203 / 3205903W)

When you recieve the part, is the touchpad ribbon installed tightly on the ERC connection ?

Could the ribbon be knocked loose in shipping, due to lack of packing material, rough handling, etc. ?

Might you be doing something wrong ?

Here is the service manual for your unit

http://servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/S231_5R0.pdf

And I have already sent you the Tech Data Sheet.

I don’t know what else I can do for you, at this point .

You will need to re order an ERC, return the original and go from there.

[bhkrause]

Joe - I’ve re-seated the ribbon on both ERCs to no avail. I don’t know what else could go wrong, there are only 5 connections on the board to disonnect/reconnect. I’ve made sure that the power is off when I remove/replace the boards. I’ve tried using dielectric compound on the connections, no difference.

It’s almost as if there’s a short or bad ground somewhere, but those are beyond my capability to track down.

I’ll try for a third, I guess, after that it’ll be a new oven.

thanks.
Bernie

[Joe_APP_Team]

— Begin quote from bhkrause;278174

Joe - I’ve re-seated the ribbon on both ERCs to no avail. I don’t know what else could go wrong, there are only 5 connections on the board to disonnect/reconnect. I’ve made sure that the power is off when I remove/replace the boards. I’ve tried using dielectric compound on the connections, no difference.

It’s almost as if there’s a short or bad ground somewhere, but those are beyond my capability to track down.

I’ll try for a third, I guess, after that it’ll be a new oven.

thanks.
Bernie

— End quote

BH,

I don’t see where a ground problem would create that symptom, it’s possible but not likely.

The ground to the unit is achieved by a jumped fitting to neutral in the line cord connection.

To check for a ground in the unit check for 120 volts AC from any active Black wire to bare metal on the frame, and or a closed circuit from any White wire to the bare metal on the frame for a closed circuit.

It doesn’t seem to be anything you are doing, that’s wrong.

I think there’s something wrong in the touchpad harness to the ERC or a pad problem that the manufacturer is not aware of.

When you recieve the replacement part (again), take it out the box,remove the plastic cover on the touchpad asembly, install it in the console, plug in the wires and connectors and turn it on,

Don’t touch the harness from the pad to the ERC.

Let me know what happens.

[bhkrause]

One question - the tech doc mentioned that the board should do a self test on power up. Door should lock, "door locked" light should turn on, then off, and door unlocks. Neither board has ever done this. Has this self test been deleted from the programming? Is there any other self test that the board can be forced to perform?

Bernie

[bhkrause]

Well,replaced the ERC and Temp Sensor tonight. Again. Cranked it up to 350 for a half hour, and then 450. So far so good.

[bhkrause]

Well, a half hour on broil today, a pizza yesterday, not a beep in sight. Just tested the temp sensor I took out , it seems to test normal, although I didn’t get it higher than boiling point. 1084 ohms at room temp, around 1360 at 210f.

I think this ERC is working. Thanks for your help! Not too many places around that will let you replace electronic components.

Bernie

[Joe_APP_Team]

— Begin quote from bhkrause;285540

Well, a half hour on broil today, a pizza yesterday, not a beep in sight. Just tested the temp sensor I took out , it seems to test normal, although I didn’t get it higher than boiling point. 1084 ohms at room temp, around 1360 at 210f.

I think this ERC is working. Thanks for your help! Not too many places around that will let you replace electronic components.

Bernie

— End quote

Bernie,

Sounds like things will be OK,

Your sensor resistance readings are "on the money", so that wasn’t really the problem.

You may want to "heat stress" that control panel a couple more times, before you consider the project done.

Good Luck.

[bhkrause]

Well, it cooked itself again. Wife tried the self clean setting, board flashed and popped like a light bulb burning out. Now the broiler works, but the lower heater and oven light no longer work (bulb works, but socket doesn’t respond to door or control switch). Tested the igniter, it’s at 135ohms resistance which is still within range, but there’s no power to the igniter at the plug when the oven is turned on. We’re done with this oven, it’s now officially junk.

[Joe_APP_Team]

— Begin quote from bhkrause;305083

Well, it cooked itself again. Wife tried the self clean setting, board flashed and popped like a light bulb burning out. Now the broiler works, but the lower heater and oven light no longer work (bulb works, but socket doesn’t respond to door or control switch). Tested the igniter, it’s at 135ohms resistance which is still within range, but there’s no power to the igniter at the plug when the oven is turned on. We’re done with this oven, it’s now officially junk.

— End quote

BH,

Sorry to hear that,

I thought we had it licked,

I’m thinking a shorted or pinched wire in the harness, somewhere, but that’s the hardest part to check, in any appliance.

Good Luck, with the new stove.