4 to 3 prong power cord swap issue. No existing terminal block on back of dryer.

[SIZE=3]I have an Admiral electric dryer with a 4-prong plug. I need to convert it so it will fit into myhome’s 3-prong receptacle.[/SIZE]
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[SIZE=3]However, unlike your typical dryer, this particular modeldoes not give you the option to easily replace the power cord. There is no small access panel on themachine’s back that reveals a terminal block where you can normally swap out acord from. When I removed the entireback panel for the machine, I found that the existing power cord is “hard-wired” intothe general wiring harness. (All thewiring leading from the harness to the power cord is still color-coded as red, black, white, andbare copper.)[/SIZE]
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[SIZE=3]Can I install my own terminal strip/block inside themachine? That is, can I just cut the red,black, white, and bare copper from the wiring harness and connect them to astore-bought terminal block (eg, Radio Shack product) that I would mountpermanently inside the machine, and then connect a replacement 3-prong cord tothe other side of the terminal?[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]Also, if this seems like a workable solution, after I havematched the color coded wires, would the bare wire from the dryer be grounded backto the machine? There is an unused “externalground connector” screw on the dryer’s back panel.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]Love this site/forum! Anyhelp would be much appreciated![/SIZE]
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In the old days it was the norm to hard wire in line cords.

I do not know if I would use a Radio Shack terminal strip.
Often they are for low wattage electronics hook ups and are not rated for the high wattage/current required for a dryer.

You could just hard wire in the new cord.
Use the wire nuts which use an internal brass piece with a screw to hold the wires in, then the black cover screws on over this. They are rated for higher currents. Also the black cover is like a bakelite so is heat resistant.

It would be a good idea to trace the bare copper back just to be sure it is attached to the frame.

Try to zip tie hold the wires in the dryer fairly short, you do not want them jiggling around so over time the insulation can wear through.

Also be sure to install a strain relief onto the line cord at the dryer.

Many thanks, Denman!

Yes, I agree the Radio Shack terminal strips seem lightweight. I took a look at their catalog today so I’ll purchase somewhere else.

There are no wire nuts on this model. The existing wires from the harness are crimped to the existing power cord. So my options are to clip them and use nuts or new crimps, or find a heavyweight terminal block.

I’m running out to purchase the parts and will report back with the results.

Many thanks again! Much appreciated!

— Begin quote from denman;453494

In the old days it was the norm to hard wire in line cords.

I do not know if I would use a Radio Shack terminal strip.
Often they are for low wattage electronics hook ups and are not rated for the high wattage/current required for a dryer.

You could just hard wire in the new cord.
Use the wire nuts which use an internal brass piece with a screw to hold the wires in, then the black cover screws on over this. They are rated for higher currents. Also the black cover is like a bakelite so is heat resistant.

It would be a good idea to trace the bare copper back just to be sure it is attached to the frame.

Try to zip tie hold the wires in the dryer fairly short, you do not want them jiggling around so over time the insulation can wear through.

Also be sure to install a strain relief onto the line cord at the dryer.

— End quote