I have a Kenmore dishwasher. I can not find the model number anywhere on it. I moved into this house with this problem already happening to the dishwasher so don’t know any history. The door will not close tight to make the dishwasher start washing. If I lean against it to make it close tighter, the dishwasher will go through the whole cycle. I’ve resorted to propping a piece of wood against it to create the tension it needs to work but it’s rather cumbersome every time I want to wash the dishes! 
There is a metal piece with a rectangular hole on the dishwasher side with a plastic rectangular tip on the door that is supposed to fit inside the hole and keep the door closed. As far as I can tell, the tip fits inside the hole but it just doesn’t pull it tight enough to activate the dishwasher. It is a 20 yr old dishwasher and I want to repair it if I can but will buy a new one if it gets too expensive to repair. The soap door also has a problem but will post it in the next thread. Thanks for replies!
PS…It is a Kenmore Ultra Wash II dishwasher.
We definitely need the complete model number of the dishwasher. There are tons of different dishwashers. You can find the name plate on the door frame.
Gene.
Model number 665.1571592 Now I have another problem though! I tried to take off the inner door but one of the screws is stripped! The screw just keeps turning and turning. I tried putting a screwdriver between the inner door and the frame to create tension and then unscrewing it but it just keeps turning. I’m down to thinking I need to take a hacksaw and saw the screw head off. Any suggestions? Thanks!
Thank you Gene for writing. Yes, it is the upper left screw! I looked up the part on Sears and the console is discontinued on their website. APP says that it "needs special attention" and to call. If it is the console, then I also have a soap dispenser door problem and the door latching problem and since I have been messing with the door screws, now just the pump comes on and no water comes out but not all the screws are back in the door. Anyway, I am wondering if it is time to hang it up on this 18 yr old dishwasher?
Barb
You have to have a simple multimeter to perform the troubleshooting. You can find the instructions in one of our previous posts: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/dryer-repair/5388-dryer-willnotheat-timer-wont-turn-off.html
Use the breakdown diagrams and http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?diagram_id=44790&&model_id=246728
Gene.
I have the same problem on the same model. I checked continuity of the element and the thermal fuse…both checked with the same amount of resistance as the new parts I ordered from you guys. I checked the power coming into the dryer and I have 240V (hot to hot) coming in. I then turned the dryer on and checked the voltage at the thermal fuse and it’s 240V (fuse to hot). I get the same reading at the element (element to hot). New element is installed, but it does not heat.
Thanks,
-mike
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Mike,
I"m afraid I did not get it clear. How did you measure the voltage at the heating element?
Gene.
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I put one lead on the element’s connectors (both gave me the same result) and one lead on the black wire from the cord coming from the wall. Using one lead on the red wire instead of the black gacve me zero voltage which tells me that the dryer is using that phase to power the element, correct?
The heater needs 240 VAC. You have to disconnect the wires from both heater terminals and measure the voltage between each of the wires and the dryer chassis while the dryer is on. The correct readings is 120 VAC on each wire and 240 VAC between them. Make sure the wires are not touching any metal parts and each other. Be careful not to electrocute yourself.
You also may want to check the thermal cut-off and the high limit thermostat (#9 & #15 on the diagram) for continuity.
If any one of them is open, the heating element would not work. They both coming as a kit.
- The thermal cut-off kit AP3094244
Gene.
P.S. Did you remove the wires from the heating element when you checked it for continuity?
— Begin quote from Gene;401060
The heater needs 240 VAC. You have to disconnect the wires from both heater terminals and measure the voltage between each of the wires and the dryer chassis while the dryer is on. The correct readings is 120 VAC on each wire and 240 VAC between them. Make sure the wires are not touching any metal parts and each other. Be careful not to electrocute yourself.
You also may want to check the thermal cut-off and the high limit thermostat (#9 & #15 on the diagram) for continuity.
If any one of them is open, the heating element would not work. They both coming as a kit.
- The thermal cut-off kit [part]AP3094244[/part]
Gene.
P.S. Did you remove the wires from the heating element when you checked it for continuity?
— End quote
Yeah, I sure did.
Looks like the culprit was the thermal cutoff (#9). No continuity. Thanks for pointing that one out to me. Time to order more parts!
You are welcome. Keep us posted.
Gene.
Dryer is still working but has stop heating. What part would I need?
The first thing you would need is a multimeter to perform the troubleshooting. The instructions you can find in one of our previous threads: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/dryer-repair/5388-dryer-willnotheat-timer-wont-turn-off.html
Here are the breakdown diagrams and http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=235962
Gene.
Sorry to whore this post, but I have an old-style GE gas dryer that’s not heating. I just replaced the igniter and both coils. It worked for a couple days, then stopped heating again. Here’s what happens:
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With the door off (to replace the coils) I start it on "Normal Heat". Igniter glows, then kicks off. Igniter restarts, glows, and then FIRE! After a few seconds of burning, shuts off. It repeats the glow/FIRE thing for as long as I let the dryer run.
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I re-install the door and start on "Normal Heat". Igniter glows, then kicks off. It repeats this for as long as I let the dryer run and NEVER fires up.
Again, I only get ignition with the door off (even for a few seconds) and NOTHING but glow when the door is installed.
Any help?
Possible the problem is a bad flame sensor.
What is the complete model number of the dryer?
Gene.
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What is the complete model number of the dryer?
— End quote
DDG7180RBLAD
Thanks for the quick reply!
— Begin quote from Gene;401128
You are welcome. Keep us posted.
Gene.
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I received the thermal cutoff, installed it and it works!
Thanks for the help Gene! You just saved me a bunch of money on a repair!
One bit of info for folks doing this repair–The thermal cutoff and high limit thermostat come as a set. I replaced my thermostat even though it wasn’t broken since I had to buy it and to keep me from losing it. Well, when I did the install, the replacement is not just like the original and some cutting of wires is involved. I did not notice that one side of the jumper was a different side than the other so of course I cut the wrong end. I ended up being able to fix it, but make sure you look at it closely before you cut.
Three1Fo said:
DDG7180RBLAD
Sorry for the delay.
- The flame sensor AP2042635
Here are the breakdown diagrams and http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=207399
Gene.
— Begin quote from Gene;404894
Sorry for the delay.- The flame sensor [part]AP2042635[/part]
— End quote
Thanks again, G. You really know your stuff! I finally got to tear it apart again after more than a week’s hiatus.
With the drum in and the door off, it glows a couple times then eventually burns. It will shut off after a few seconds, then glow and burn again.
With the drum out and the door off, it does the same thing.
I then re-installed everything appropriately. It glows, bleeds gas, shuts off, then glows, bleeds gas, shuts off, etc. No burn.
I disassembled it again, removed and re-installed the coils, removed and re-installed the flame sensor (haven’t ordered the new one yet) and turned it on. Again (partially assembled) it glows and burns.
This M.F. P.O.S. will NOT heat when its assembled.:mad: I’ve taken the damn thing apart three times today! I’m convinced it must be a loose connection or some interference with the door in place. But I am very careful about piecing things together accurately and cannot find an obvious solution.
Any possible avenues?
You may want to give a try to the flame sensor first.
Gene.