Washer goes through the cycles properly, but the displayed times will increase or decrease, then go to the next cycle and do the same thing. Water stays in the tub and during the spin cycle, does not have enough time to drain properly, and the displayed times are erratic. The result is a wet load when it is done.
I suspect a faulty control board since that is the only thing I see that would control the cycles and times. Any thoughts?
Are you only using HE detergent? After normal cycle and you still have water in tub, select drain/spin mode. Will it fully drain and spin water out of clothes?
Eric
Yes, I am using HE detergent for cold water. Tried the drain/spin mode, and it filled the tub while in that drain/spin mode. It is as if the processor got hung up and could not reset itself, and filled the tub while in the spin mode. I ended up unplugging the washer and letting it rest overnight.
Today I took the front control panel apart and looked to see of there were any loose connectors to the main control board, but they were OK. Pushed them down to be sure, made sure the water fill tube was connected securely, then put it through a full wash cycle and monitored it. All was OK.
I’m going to try other wash loads and monitor the progress, but it looks like a possible board issue if the water fills the tub in the spin mode, do you agree, or is there something else I have to look at?
Oh, do you know how to open the top of the washer? I tried looking for release clips in the front, but didn’t find any, and tried prying it up a little, but nothing released easily so I didn’t go any further.
Those two clips to release the front control panel are a real pain. Is there any easy way to release them other than pushing them in with a screwdriver?
Thanks.
There have been lots of issues with this new Whirlpool design including erratic main control units. You might check the air dome on the lower right side of the outer tub. That’s where the air hose from the MCU connects to and measures pressure based on water level. The air dome and hose can get gunked up giving false readings to the MCU. To open the top panel, remove the top screw of the hinge on each side on the back of the washer as well as remove the wiring harness cover next to one of the hinges. Then pull the top panel forward 1/2", up 1/4" and back 1/4". As far as those control panel clips, the prescribed method is to push back on the top corner of the panel while inserting putty knife under lower corner pushing into the clip. You can also try releasing them from underneath reaching over the top of the tub.
Eric
After more diagnosis, I ordered and replaced the Actuator/Shifter, and this resolved the issue for me. It seems the actuator/shifter was not always moving the tub to the proper position, thus letting the control board know that the tub was not moving when it should be. That action also caused the Lid Lock light to blink at various times, adding to the mystery.
Anyway, the service guy I had come in did not carry this common part, and he confirmed what I thought about the actuator/shifter, so I ordered it on my own and replaced it, saving about $160 in additional repair costs.
Whirlpool part # W10006355 Shift Actuator
Thanks to those who responded to my situation, and I hope others will be able to use this information also.