if i bypass defrost themo should it work
If the timer is in defrost mode - yes.
Gene.
hello Gene
i need diagram for this fridg,to check defrost system,magic chef
MCBR1000W,i see frost behind back panel,thanks
The model number you posted does not come up and, unfortunately, we are not able to find any information on-line.
Gene.
Remove the rear panel in the freezer and check how is the evaporator coil covered with frost. If it’s covered only partially then there is a problem with the sealed system which has 5 years manufacturer warranty. In such case you have to call Whirlpool for free service.
Gene.
We have a Kitchen Aid: KBLA20ELSS00 now a little over 5 years old. It is very clear that the defrost system is not working, within 2 weeks the freezer coils are completely frosted over and only a manual defrost (i.e. unplug the fridge) gets the thing working again.
I have tried to trouble shoot the system based on your advice in here, but I am running out of things to replace. I don’t own an ohm meter, so I tried brute force replacing all possible failure parts. So far i have replaced:
Defrost Timer: AP3492964
Defrost Heater: AP4078863
Thermostat kit: AP3475238
Ice Maker Thermostat: AP3135377
It seems that the new heater is still not heating up and defrosting the ice.
Any tips on what else I should be looking at? I will purchase an Ohm meter to check continuity tomorrow, any ideas what i should do after that?
chlear909,
One of most common problem is such situation is a bad defrost thermostat (in the left upper corner). Check this part for continuity while it’s cold and replace if it’s open.
The part number should be marked on the old part. If it’s not ,then it suppose to be the temperature mark, like L50-35 or something like that.
Post your findings and I’ll help you to find the right replacement part.
Gene.
thanks Gene,ill replace that part and get back with results,thanks again for this great service
Another idea, somthing that I do once in a while is to unplugg the refer, and cut and strip the wires on the defrost thermostat and connect them together (the 2 wires that are part of the machine, not the thermostat) tape the ends. now plug the power cord in, turn the defrost timer to defrost, and see if heater comes on. If it does, your defrost thermostat is bad, if your heater does not come on, your heater is bad. Maybe this can help those that do not have a meter, or know how to use one.
tyang54,
Does the fan in the freezer work?
Gene.
yes, fan is definitely working. problem is that the heating element isn’t heating in the defrost cycle. I’ve tested both the old and the new element and they register about 20 ohms resistance. I presume that is ok for a working element. In defrost cycle the heating element is still cool to the touch, I presume that’s bad. Is there a safe way to test if there is current running to the defrost element when in defrost mode? How much power should be going to the defrost coil, and is it AC or DC?
I was going to unplug the heating element and complete the circuit using my volt meter to see if any juice was flowing. I have an open solder joint right before the new defrost thermostat that I can tap to take the defrost thermostat out of the equation.
Thanks again to all of you guys for your help
Cut the defrost thermistat out and connect the 2 wires together and see if the heater comes on, just leave enough wire so you can reconnect it after testing.
so for a quik check of the thermostat and temporary fix(if the defrost heater is ok)would be to bare the wires like this and touchm together awhile when the frost gets thick?like a manual switch
any idea of the part no. of that thermostat on photo?
I am having the same problem as the posts below where my freezer works fine but the fridge area is too warm. I did notice that frost builds up on the back panel of my freezer and thats when the fridge area stops working. Its like no air flow thru the vent. If I unplug my fridge and let the water drain out and plug it back up. It works fine on both sides until it freezes up again. I have the back off of the unit and it looks like everything is working fine but obviously something isn’t. Any suggestions? My model is a GE (GSS22SGPCSS)
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
— Begin quote from chlear909;25172
…I connected the bare wires in the photo shown …
— End quote
I do not think it was a good idea because of poor connection and possible shortage to metal parts.
As abadfish66 advised, you have to cut the thermostat out and connect the wires using a wire nut.
The defrost timer must be in "defrost" position at this time to provide power to the defrost parts.
Gene.
ok,how do i get it in defrost position?,i cant use my model # to see the breakdown.i cut out the switch and put on a wire nut,same result.
thanks
Most likely it is somewhere in the control panel and it should look like this:
[CENTER]
[/CENTER]
[LEFT]Using a flat screwdriver, slowly turn the shaft in the middle CW until it clicks and the compressor stops.
Gene.[/LEFT]
control panel location?perhaps in the back near the compressor.the fridge has only min-max turn knob inside.or maybe in the freezer near the defrost switch?
what does the defrost heater look like?
thanks for your help
I’m not able to tell you where the defrost timer is located because I do not have break down diagrams for this model. You have to search your refrigerator for a part looks similar to the picture I posted earlier.
The defrost heater is a tube in the evaporator area with two wires attached to it.
Gene.
— Begin quote from abadfish66;24986
Cut the defrost thermistat out and connect the 2 wires together and see if the heater comes on, just leave enough wire so you can reconnect it after testing.
— End quote
So I did this and the heater is not really running. I tried checking voltage across the circuit and I am getting 2.4V AC Is this enough to drive the circuit? I tested my circuit all the way to the input for the freezer compartment which also reads 2.4 V.
My question is
- is 2.4V the correct voltage going across the heating element and
- if not, where can I be checking upstream for the proper voltage?
I am definitely not getting enough current across the heating element when the freezer is in defrost mode.