Fridgidaire Freezer runs, makes noise at least, but isn’t cooling. It is an upright, "commercial grade" unit which is about 5 years old. Contents have started to thaw. Walls of box on the outside are very warm to the touch. Freezer is in the garage which is dusty.
Suggestions on where to start? Fan, dirty coils, etc?
I am a fairly capable person with tools who can repair things, but I have no experience with Freezers.
Thank you.
A model number may help others help you.
First clean the condenser coils under the unit.
Check that the condenser fan is running, if it has one.
Check that the compressor is running should be warm/hot and usually you can feel it vibrating.
Check that the evaporator coil fan is running in the freezer, if it has one.
Check the evaporator coils in the freezer, if the unit has them.
If heavily iced/frosted over you may have a defrost problem.
If patchy or they just have frost where the freon enters them you may be low on freon.
Here is a good link on fridge repair mush of the info also applies to freezers depending on the type.
http://www.applianceaid.com/frig.html
It is a Fridgidaire Model LFFU1765DW3.
An update… Underneath the unit appears to be just the compressor unit (black sphere). No evidence of any leakage or anything wrong. So, I removed the cover on the inside to expose the condensor, fan and thermostat on the back wall of the box. I plugged it in, operated the thermostat and things are appearing to run (fan, compressor, etc).
The unit has been sitting open overnight, so I don’t know what condition the condensor was in, since the freezer has thawed for about 12 hours now. Contents have been transferred to another freezer.
Thanks.
Thanks.
I’ll put some water in the unit and wait until tonight.
Also, right away, I noticed frost building up on the evaporator inside.
Is this normal?
Yes, since the door was open the water vapor in the air will condense on the evaporator coils.
Actually it is a very good thing as it indicates the unit/compressor is running OK so it should not be that expensive to repair.
denman,
Thank you for your help with this.
Well, I placed a thermometer and small container of water inside the freezer, on the top rack, about 4 hours ago. The water is frozen solid and the thermometer reads about -4C. Like you said, since the unit is freezing, I guess this means that I have an auto defrost problem? The evaporator is definitely becoming covered with frost. I suppose what happens is that it could become heavily covered, and not go through an auto defrost cycle, and eventually not work properly with the fan.
So, now do I check the defrost timer, t-stat, element, etc?
Here are your parts
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5148427
Take a look at Item 23 in Section 3.
First remove the evaporator cover in the freezer so you can see the coils.
Not do not let them de-ice.
If they are heavily iced/frosted over you have a defrost problem.
If yes.
Manually force a defrost cycle by turning the defrost timer cam till the fans and compressor turn off.
Now check the defrost heater to see if it is on.
Be careful you do not want to burn your fingers.
If the heater is on then the timer needs replacing, re: it is probably stalling during it’s rotation so is never getting into a defrost cycle.
If not on.
Unplug the unit.
Remove the wire for one side of the heating element from the wiring and measure it for continuity, usually around 20 ohms or so.
If the heater is OK
Remove one wire to the defrost thermostat and measure it, should be 0 ohms when frozen. Note that it opens just above freezing so must be frozen to check it. Also inspect it, if it is bulged at all replace it even if it measures OK.
If both the above are OK then odds are the defrost timer contacts are toast.
Best way to test this is a live test to see if you have 120 volts across the heater/defrost thermostat combo.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
- Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
- Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
- When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.
denman,
I manually forced a defrost cycle by turning the timer knob until it clicked and the compressor and fan turned off.
I walked around to feel the defrost heating element and within a couple of seconds I could tell it was hot by just tapping on it with my fingers.
So, this means that it is not closing a contact automatically and starting the defrost cycle? This means I need a new defrost timer?
Thanks again.
So, this means that it is not closing a contact automatically and starting the defrost cycle? This means I need a new defrost timer?
Yes
The defrost heater and thermostat check out OK so the timer is the only thing left.
denamn,
Thank you so much for your help. I’ll be ordering a defrost timer.
denman,
With your help, I replaced the defrost timer about 10 days ago. Ran fine until I noticed yesterday that it was showing similar symptoms as before. Higher temps inside and constantly running. I still had the thermometer in there and it was definitely warmer that it should be, at about 0C. So, I took out enough contents to get to the evaporater. Removed the cover and observed that it was a little frosty. The frost wasn’t all over the evaporator, mostly at the edges, but I could still see plenty of fins, so it wasn’t a big chunk of ice. I manually turned the defrost timer to on and the element heated up to melt the frost. The element turned off after a few minutes & the evaporator was frost free. I flipped the freezer back on by turning the knob some more to the second click.
This morning, the temp was at about -1C. So, it’s not quite running where it should be but the contents are frozen again.
What do you think it going on? My guess is a refrigerant issue. Are there any tests I can do?
Thanks again.
Could be low freon here is a link with example pics.
http://www.applianceaid.com/refrigerator.html
Take a look at 20, example pictures at the bottom of the page.
Go back to my first post and check those items especially the fans.
If it is a low freon condition then often it makes more sense to put those dollars into a new unit. This can also be caused by a restriction in the sealed system re: some crud is partially clogging an orifice.
It makes no sense to add freon until the leak location is found, also you need a pro to add freon and it will not be cheap.
denman,
Yes, it looks like the example pictures at the bottom of the page. Patchy frost on the evaporator.
Well, I think I’ll be looking on Craig’slist for a freezer. I can get one for $100, which I’d guess would be cheaper than a service technician and freon recharge.
Thanks again.