My fridge has recently been staying a little warmer than usual. I changed the setting to the coolest a couple of weeks ago and that seemsed a bit better…Now the freezer and fridge seem to be working intermittently…
Any suggestions?
— Begin quote from Shane5223;301815
My fridge has recently been staying a little warmer than usual. I changed the setting to the coolest a couple of weeks ago and that seemsed a bit better…Now the freezer and fridge seem to be working intermittently…
Any suggestions?
— End quote
Shane,
Check the back wall of the freezer compartment,
For "snow" or ice,
Your description would indicate a probable defrost problem,
The first indication would be frost or ice building up on the evaporator, and restricting the air flow in the unit, and causing ice to form on the back wall.
Good Luck,
Would this be on the inside of the freezer? If so, there is no frost buildup…
— Begin quote from Shane5223;301855
Would this be on the inside of the freezer? If so, there is no frost buildup…
— End quote
Shane,
Yes,
It would be the back wall inside the freezer.
And you also stated both the fridge and freezer have an intermittent cooling situation, correct ?
Based on that, I would have to suspect the ADC timer board
[part]AP4909015[/part]
or the temperature control
[part]AP2151626[/part]
Of course there are other possibilities( sealed system failure, defrost thermostat, etc.)
But that’s were I would start if it were me.
Good Luck,
So, I have the back panel off where the condenser unit is…I open the doors to the fridge and when cooling is called for a humming sound comes from the condenser for about 3 seconds and then stops…could this be the issue? Shouldn’t it run until the temp is reached?
The fan to the coils is running constantly…
The two parts you speak of, is there any way to check if they are bad before purchasing them?
— Begin quote from Shane5223;301965
So, I have the back panel off where the condenser unit is…I open the doors to the fridge and when cooling is called for a humming sound comes from the condenser for about 3 seconds and then stops…could this be the issue? Shouldn’t it run until the temp is reached?
The fan to the coils is running constantly…
The two parts you speak of, is there any way to check if they are bad before purchasing them?
— End quote
Shane,
Now that’s a better description, and more informative.
It now sounds like a bad compressor relay/overload assembly.
[part]AP4367355[/part]
[part]AP4315853[/part]
If you remove the assembly from the side of the compressor, and shake it, if you hear or feel a rattle, you’ve got a burnt PTC assembly inside and you’ll need to replace the part(s).
Thanks for the update and added information,
Good Luck,
I have removed this and do not hear any rattle…Is there another way to see if it is functioning properly?
I unplugged it for about 10 minuets and when I plugged it in the compressor ran for a good minute or so and then stopped…When it tried to go again, I could hear a slight wine, then a click and then nothing?
— Begin quote from Shane5223;302007
I unplugged it for about 10 minuets and when I plugged it in the compressor ran for a good minute or so and then stopped…When it tried to go again, I could hear a slight wine, then a click and then nothing?
— End quote
Shane,
We’re back at a bad relay / overload assembly, or a sealed system failure.
You’re not going to be equipped to do a sealed system repair(special tools, refrigerant , etc.)
Do you have access to a multi meter, so yo can test circuits and voltages at the relay or compressor ?
Let us know, and we can get you the information, and get you up and running.
Good Luck,
I Have A Multimeter…thanks For Your Help!
— Begin quote from Shane5223;302306
I Have A Multimeter…thanks For Your Help!
— End quote
Shane,
Here are some basic operation and component checks,
They are just general information, but they apply to most if not all refrigerator compressor systems.
Good Luck,
[LEFT][SIZE=1][FONT=Arial][SIZE=1]Resistance test[/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=1]
[/SIZE][/FONT][SIZE=1][FONT=Arial][SIZE=1]1. Disconnect power to unit.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]2. Discharge capacitor by shorting across terminals with a resistor for 1 minute.[/SIZE][/LEFT]
[/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=1][FONT=Arial][SIZE=1]NOTE:
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][LEFT][SIZE=1][FONT=Arial][SIZE=1](Some compressors do not have a run capacitor.)[/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=1]
[LEFT][SIZE=1]3. Remove leads from compressor terminals.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]4. Set ohmmeter to lowest scale.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]5. Check for resistance between[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]Terminals “S” and “C”, start winding[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]Terminals “R” and “C”, run winding[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]If either compressor winding reads open (infinite or very high resistance) or[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]dead short (0 ohms), replace compressor.[/SIZE]
[/SIZE][/FONT][SIZE=1][FONT=Arial][SIZE=1]Ground test[/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=1]
[/SIZE][/FONT][SIZE=1][FONT=Arial][SIZE=1]1. Disconnect power to refrigerator.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]2. Discharge capacitor, if present, by shorting terminals through a resistor.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]3. Remove compressor leads and use an ohmmeter set on highest scale.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]4. Touch one lead to compressor body (clean point of contact) and other probe[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]to each compressor terminal.[/SIZE]
[/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=SymbolMT][SIZE=1][FONT=SymbolMT][SIZE=1]• [/LEFT]
[/LEFT]
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][LEFT][SIZE=1][FONT=Arial][SIZE=1]If reading is obtained, compressor is grounded and must be replaced.[/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=1]
[/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=1]
[SIZE=1]Overload / relay test[/SIZE]
[LEFT][SIZE=1][FONT=Arial][SIZE=1][FONT=Arial][SIZE=1]Remove relay cover and disconnect leads.[/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT][/FONT][/SIZE][SIZE=1][FONT=Arial][FONT=Arial][SIZE=1]
[SIZE=1]Check resistance across terminals 2 and 3 with an ohmmeter:[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]Normal = 3 to 12 ohms[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]Shorted = 0 ohms[/SIZE][/LEFT]
[SIZE=1]Open = infinite ohms[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]Compressor operation[/SIZE]
[LEFT][SIZE=1][FONT=Arial][SIZE=1][FONT=Arial][SIZE=1]When compressor electrical circuit is[/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT][/FONT][/SIZE][SIZE=1][FONT=Arial][FONT=Arial][SIZE=1]
[SIZE=1]energized, the start winding current[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]causes relay to heat. After an amount of[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]starting time, the start winding circuit[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]turns off. The relay will switch off the start[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]winding circuit even though compressor[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]has not started (for example, when[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]attempting to restart after momentary[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]power interruption).[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]With “open” relay, compressor will not[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]start because there is little or no current[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]to start windings. Overload protection will[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]open due to high locked rotor run winding[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]current.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]With “shorted” relay or capacitor,[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]compressor will start and overload[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]protector will quickly open due to high[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]current of combined run and start[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]windings.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]With open or weak capacitor, compressor[/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]will start and run as normal but will[/SIZE][/LEFT]
[SIZE=1]consume more energy.[/SIZE]
[/SIZE][/FONT][/FONT][/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT][/FONT][/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT]
[/LEFT]