Installed 2 New Main Boards - Fridge still broke

Refrigerator & Freezer Repair
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1

Hello, I have GE GSL23WGSBBS fridge a few weeks ago it quit staying very cold on the fridge/freezer. I called out a tech and he tested everything and found it to have a bad main control board. He wanted $325 for the board plus $85 for install.

I did some checking on the web and found this great site. I order the new main control board from here.

I installed the new board and nothing. All it did was make a buzzing/humming sound. The fridge light was on inside but everything else was dead. Did more reading on here and seems that the new board was bad. I chatted with customer service and they sent me another new board.

Installed 2nd new control board last night and nothing, same buzzing/humming. I unplugged fridge and plugged it back in and it came to life. It started up, fan ran, compressor kicked on, all lights, etc. But it was only for a few seconds, than completely dead again. Than it came back on, then off again, than started clicking, clicking, back on, back off. The most it every ran for was maybe a minute.

I left it unplugged all night. Plugged in this morning. Same thing starts right up, then dead, starts again, then dead, click, click, on, off, on, off, etc.

Is it possible to get 2 new bad boards in a row.

Any ideas? What do I try next? Do I need another new main control board?

Two weeks without a fridge is getting old, any help would be appreciated.

I hate to call the tech back out and pay him his crazy parts price.

Thanks, Cam

3

— Begin quote from Cameleer;293442

Hello, I have GE GSL23WGSBBS fridge a few weeks ago it quit staying very cold on the fridge/freezer. I called out a tech and he tested everything and found it to have a bad main control board. He wanted $325 for the board plus $85 for install.

I did some checking on the web and found this great site. I order the new main control board from here.

I installed the new board and nothing. All it did was make a buzzing/humming sound. The fridge light was on inside but everything else was dead. Did more reading on here and seems that the new board was bad. I chatted with customer service and they sent me another new board.

Installed 2nd new control board last night and nothing, same buzzing/humming. I unplugged fridge and plugged it back in and it came to life. It started up, fan ran, compressor kicked on, all lights, etc. But it was only for a few seconds, than completely dead again. Than it came back on, then off again, than started clicking, clicking, back on, back off. The most it every ran for was maybe a minute.

I left it unplugged all night. Plugged in this morning. Same thing starts right up, then dead, starts again, then dead, click, click, on, off, on, off, etc.

Is it possible to get 2 new bad boards in a row.

Any ideas? What do I try next? Do I need another new main control board?

Two weeks without a fridge is getting old, any help would be appreciated.

I hate to call the tech back out and pay him his crazy parts price.

Thanks, Cam

— End quote

Cam,

I don’t think you need another main board.

Did you check and follow the instruction sheet that came with the new part ?

In some cases, you need to re route wires and need to follow the instructions, for the machine to operate properly.

If after you re check everything, then call the servicer.

  • remember, you have a 1 year warranty on the part, if he says you need another ???*

Good Luck,
:frowning: :frowning: :frowning:

4

Hey Joe,
Thanks for the reply. I followed the instruction the best I could. My model is a side by side with digital controls. So if read the instructions right I should not cut or reroute the wires. Is there something I am missing?
Thanks, Cam

5

— Begin quote from Cameleer;293459

Hey Joe,
Thanks for the reply. I followed the instruction the best I could. My model is a side by side with digital controls. So if read the instructions right I should not cut or reroute the wires. Is there something I am missing?
Thanks, Cam

— End quote

Cam,

You’re not missing anything, that I know of.

If you’re sure you have everything proper and tight(no loose connections or wires).

I would need to start looking at the compressor relay / overload assembly, based on your description, now.

[part]AP3884299[/part]

[part]AP2071964[/part]

:cool: :cool: :cool:

6

Hey Joe,
Anyway way to test compresser overload and relay?
Thanks, Cam

7

Remove the white compressor start device. If it rattles while shaken, it’s bad. If you have an ohm meter, remove the black run capacitor and check the two mating pins on the start device, should measure between 5 and 10 ohms.