I’m a mom and am pretty much the laundry lady in my home. To my dismay, my washer suddenly stopped working properly a couple of days ago. It first flashed error F11. I ran the self test on it and it never seemed to spin when it was supposed to during the test. Then it flashed error F01. Both errors show up in the error history during diagnostics. There was water in the tub, where it didn’t drain, which I shopvac’d out. I cleaned the trap (& found almost $2 in change :D). After digging around the garage I finally found a test meter so I ohm’d the motor and get readings of ~7 ohms on each pair of leads & 125 ohms on the tach leads. (Thank goodness for the electronics training I got in the Air Force many years ago!:)) The testing booklet says that the prob could be the CCU, MCU, communication between the two, or the motor. Seems like the motor is probably good based on the test readings, but I can’t find any info on how to test the CCU or the MCU. I saw on a repair board (don’t know it it was this one or another site, I’ve looked at so many) that replacing the MCU might fix the problem. Can anyone help me to narrow down the problem more assuredly? Thanks!
This is a Whirlpool made Duet masquerading as a Kenmore. Even Whirlpool techs don’t know how to fix them.
I suggest you order both boards and try replacing them one at a time. If you order from this site you can return the parts you don’t need. Also, check the door lock mechanism, its not logical but sometimes that is the problem on these models.
Sidfink43 is right it’s a communication error or boards fouling out. The HE HE2 HE3 HE4 washers and dryers all have this problem and there a real pain. Test at the motor control the small blue wires should have 5 vdc and the 2 pink wires coming in should have 120acv if you have those readings the main board should be ok. If you have those readings at your motor control on the bottom the suspect would be the motor control or motor having issues. Also don’t rule out the door lock like he had mentioned those are a common problem with front loaders when they won’t go into a spin. Should have a nice heavy click when it locks/unlocks it shouldn’t be hesitant or having a buzzing noise when it locks/unlocks.
Thanks for your advice, y’all! Just a couple of more questions:
Sidfink, I think I will follow your advice on ordering both parts and replacing them one at a time. That seems to make the most sense and will save a lot of time on the front end. Do you happen to know the part numbers I will need?
Humboldt, I assume I need to test these voltages at the motore while the machine is plugged in, but do I need to turn it on and select a cycle also? If so, any cycle or a specific one? It is a real pain to reach the motor and the MCU on this machine. I feel like I am practicing to be a contortionist every time I work on it! I honestly think the door lock is fine. There is a good, solid clunk when it locks and unlocks.
I sure hope the voltage readings are good, since I am guessing you have to remove the back of the machine in order to access the motor if it goes bad. I will wait to hear a reply before doing more testing to save some wear and tear on my knees and back.
If you click on your model number you will be taken to the parts pages for your machine. Or you can call APP and give them the model number (they may also need the serial number, so have it handy too) and they will fix you up.
Those of us who reply on this site are not connected with the APP parts operations, we are mostly volunteers but we do this in part because APP gives great service and great prices and great delivery.
I really appreciate your help. I’ll look them up and order both as you advised. Thanks!
Great, good luck and let us know how it turns out.