[SIZE=3]I am having a reoccurring PCB problem, same symptomseight months apart and need help or advice from others having the same problem.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]Neptune[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]Model: MAH3000AWW[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]Serial # 18110467SW[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]Original Control Board [/SIZE][COLOR=black][FONT=Times New Roman]6 2707690[/FONT][/COLOR]
[SIZE=3]Symptoms:[/SIZE]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3]1-[/SIZE] [/FONT][SIZE=3]The machine starts overfilling and water runningout the front door[/SIZE]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3]2-[/SIZE] [/FONT][SIZE=3]it appears water is continually running and willnot turned off during the cycles (stops when unplugging the power[/SIZE]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3]3-[/SIZE] [/FONT][SIZE=3]we have noticed the machine running hot or warmwater when in the cold setting[/SIZE]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3]4-[/SIZE] [/FONT][SIZE=3]Electricalburning smell is noticed that turns out to be an overheated trace on the backof the PCB[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]History: six months ago the washer stopped working PCB showingsigns of overheating/shorting on the back side of the PCB opposite of P4 onfront side. Not knowing exactly what caused the problem, I replace the following:[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]PCB - new[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]Timer dial- used[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]Washer Push Button Switches (all of them) used[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]Door latch wax-motor-new[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]drum bearing and seal was changed out 1 1/2 years ago (easyrepair for such a common problem)[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]After these changes the machine worked fine for eightmonths but has now experience the same short and burns on the back of the PCB.I have removed the motor controller inspecting it closely and there are no burnor heat marks anywhere, it looks fine.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]I have performed the following test and each one hastested fine as described in the service manual troubleshooting guide:[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]Drive System Diagnostics Test[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]Drive Systems Phase Loss Test[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]drive system Phase Continuity Test[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]I am now at a loss any help or recommendations would begreatly appreciated,[/SIZE]
WD, are you sure the burnt tracers are associated to the P4 connector. If so, you’ll need to check the voltage at the outlet, while the washer is in operation and make sure the voltage doesn’t drop below 108 VAC. Another check you’ll need to make is the connectors at the motor control board. You’ll need to extract the wires from the connector and check to make sure the wires aren’t frayed at the terminal and, carefully expand the terminals, so there is a "tight" fit when you plug the connector back onto the pins on the board connector. Thanks and Good Luck
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HelloJoe, first of all thank you for your response. After careful review the twoburnt tracers (looking out the photo) starting from down the top is tracernumber 2 and 3. When I referenced P4 it was a broad description of the locationwhich I shouldn’t have done.
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Tracernumber two (second from the top) you can see just to the right is a solderpoint which on the other side of the board is actually labeled JP13 which is ajumper wire right alongside P4. When I follow track number three to the left,it terminates at the first pin terminal on P7.
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Regardingyour other points I had checked fairly closely each of the connector points andeach seems to be typed in a good connection with no heat or burn marks. I havenot tracked down the wire loom checking for frayed spots along the wire but I willbased on your recommendation.
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Ifany of this sheds light on your analysis your comments would be greatlyappreciated
[SIZE=3][/SIZE]
Thanksagain,
[SIZE=3][/SIZE]Will
HelloJoe, first of all thank you for your response. After careful review the twoburnt tracers (looking out the photo) starting from down the top is tracernumber 2 and 3. When I referenced P4 it was a broad description of the locationwhich I shouldn’t have done.
Tracernumber two (second from the top) you can see just to the right is a solderpoint which on the other side of the board is actually labeled JP13 which is ajumper wire right alongside P4. When I follow track number three to the left,it terminates at the first pin terminal on P7.
Regardingyour other points I had checked fairly closely each of the connector points andeach seems to be typed in a good connection with no heat or burn marks. I havenot tracked down the wire loom checking for frayed spots along the wire but I willbased on your recommendation.
Ifany of this sheds light on your analysis your comments would be greatlyappreciated
Thanksagain,
Will
— End quote
Will,
I had a feeling … Now you want to check, the fill valve and the wiring at the fill valve. Especially the green ground wires. R34place the fill valve and the control board, and you" be fine.