This is a Maytag washer/dryer stack. I press the washer start button. The door lock goes on, the machine makes filling noise, then a minute later it stops. The door lock light remains on. I’ve tried starting just the rinse/spin cycle, and the same results.
The repair guy made a service call and reported the machine suffered a power surge that fried the control board. I think his diagnoses is suspect since he did not look at the control board.
After he left, I pulled the main control board and found R43 fried. I also found NO evidence of arching or wire damage on the other parts of the washer.
I’ve read other posts about Neptune control board resister failures and their causes. I did not see any information on R43. The wire diagram indicates that the "end of cycle signal" inputs to R43. I’m going to install a new control board, but worry it will again fail. Thanks for your help.
When replacing the Maytag Neptune Machine control boards on the stackers, MAH3000, MAH4000 and MAH5500A Neptunes make sure that you have the latest door latch wax motor. It should have the black actuator pin. The defective ones have the brownish actuator pin (matching the wax motor body color).
When the wax motor fails it will the overheat Q6 triac. This will cause Q6 to short out which applies 120 VAC to the center lead (gate) of triac which burns R11. R43 can also burn when the wax motor fails. It is an 18K, 1/4 watt, 5% carbon type resistor. See http://www.neptunewaxmotor.com for disassembly pictures and a video on replacing the R11 and Q6.
If you have R11 burnt, STOP! don’t keep trying to start machine or you can further damage control board or even damage the motor control board located near the floor. You will want to cut out R11 and Q6, making sure that no Q6 pins can touch to prevent any further damage. After Q6 and R11 are clipped out you can try to start machine. Everything should work except the door will not lock and you won’t have the spin cycle. If the water flows correctly, and the timer works normally then your board should be repairable with the Q6 and R11 repair kit offered on the mentioned site above.
If the water does not flow then your control board suffered more damage and will need to be replaced and these are available on same site as well.
I also have a Mle2000ayw that had a no-spin problem but the door lock and light worked fine. I pulled the board and resistor r-43 was burned. I replaced it with a [FONT=Times New Roman]18K, 1/4 watt, 5% carbon type resistor. It worked fine for 2 loads then quit spinning again after a load of towels. I checked everything again. Main board, motor board, wax motor, out of balance switches… I couldn’t find a thing wrong. I was just getting ready to call a pro but decided to check the pump again. (it was fine) While I was back there, I pulled the small panel for the water inlet off and shined a flashlight in there and saw the connector for the out of balance switches. I was taking this apart to check continuity and one of the wires pulled out of the connector very easily. I pushed it back in tight and checked the circuit with an ohmeter and it wes fine (closed). I snapped the connector back together and for the fun of it tried the spin cycle and it worked fine!!! I guess the big load of towels shook it loose. Hope this helps. Bob[/FONT]
Did you replace your original defective wax motor with the brownish actuator pin? You want the redesigned wax motor with the black actuator pin.
Icemaker works when I pour water in it, but isn’t getting any water. It just makes a clicking noise. Water is getting to the refrigerator.
I think everyone has abandoned this site…