Hi,
I have a Whirlpool Washer LSQ9544KQ0 (Direct Drive) and upon spin cycle the machine starts making a loud noise and won’t spin.
I looked at the motor coupling and that seem fine, it spins. Water pumps out.
Have to check the drive block however when I get a spanner wrench.
Was just wondering if anybody would have an idea at what else I should look at.
Any reply would be appreciated.
Thank you
Pull the pump and motor and turn the tranny coupler clockwise, if the clutch housing above the tranny never turns, you have a bad tranny. If it turns but no spin, you have a bad clutch, or bad clutch actuator.
Richappy
Thank you for your reply. Took motor and pump off, spun coupler clockwise while still on washer, clutch housing did not spin, then clutch got jammed.
Took tranny off washer, with the clutch housing and shaft, spun coupler off of washer, clutch housing spun but not the shaft.
Bad tranny or bad clutch??
Any reply would be appreciated.
Thank you
You have stuck brake shoes.You will find it very hard to turn the brown plastic actuator on the end of the spin tube clockwise. Go to my "sticky" "replacing direct drive brake shoes" for info on this.
Thank you richappy,
Took out tranny and opened up, found that the large nylon gear wheel had worn teeth in certain areas.
Ordered and received a new tranny, would like to know what tests should I perform to check brakes or clutch in case another problem caused the teeth to be worn.
Just do the tranny coupler test in my "sticky" "replacing direct drive brake shoes". They are probably the reason your tranny nylon gear failed.
The newer clutches will slip and prevent tranny damage, but it is best to fix the problem.
In your sticky brake shoe section, you first state a situation where the coupler broke. Our coupler did not break.
Second, are you stating that a lot of turns of the coupler indicate that the problem happened because of heavy loads during agitation, and a few turns to engage spin of the basket indicate the problem happened during spin and is due to dragging brakes?
Couplers break due to high impact load, not necesarily due to a high friction load. If you would check your current draw, you might find the motor is drawing excessive current reaching a motor burnout level.
Can I measure the amperage on the power cord outside of the washing machine or do I have to find the red wire inside the washing machine cabinet and measure amperage there?
Thank you
You must measure a single wire on the power cord behind the control panel. The power cord has a white, black and green wire. Measure either the white, or black wire only.
Dear RH
Split the power cord outside the washer cabinet, and used amp clamp on the black wire. with the washer set to super plus for a full tank of water, the amp probe measured at most 8.6 and at least 8.0 amps during the spin cycle. it never reached 10 amps and never fell lower than 8.0. OK, or what do you think? thank you for your most valuable help by the way.
That is a safe current level for the motor and I assume now you have no more noise.
In my "stickey" I explain that the tranny nylon gear can be damaged by a high impact load like a load of sneakers with insufficient water. Maybe that is the reason your tranny failed.
RH,
Your the man, Thank you:) 
Thank you, and I assume the washer is spinning up to full speed.