Hello, I have a model FWTB69RGSO Frigidaire Front Loading Wash Machine (Crown Series, 10 cycle). I bought it in April 2000 and have not had a problem with it till now - the bearing is shot and needs to be replaced. Could anybody direct me to a service manual or give me a brief on how to replace the rear shell bearing? I know it is an extensive repair but I am hoping with the manual or somebody’s help I would be able to do it. Thanks!
Frank
Thanks Gene that helps a lot. Any tips on this project and do you know how long would such a repair take?
This is a pretty tough job for a few hours.
Gene.
I did a Maytag Neptune, took 2 hours. You can get some idea what to do by reading my article in announcement section "replacing Neptune bearings.
Just pound out the bearings (assuming they both are bad), take them to an auto parts store, and order them, try to get sealed bearings.
If not, I would opt for the entire rear tub shell, only about $150 plus shipping.
P# AP2578105 Shipping might be over $30 due to it’s size.
Thanks Gene & Richard. Few people told me the bearing cannot be replaced on its own so I actually got the shell. However, since I didn’t have to pay for it (I was lucky and talked Frigidaire into shipping me one for free), would you think it is easier to replace just the bearings than the shell?
Frank
Hi Frank,
This is pretty common situation when the spider arm(s) on old style inner tub is cracked. Unfortunately in order to solve this problem you have to replace the whole inner tub and it’s expensive.
Gene.
Well, the job is done and the washer (knock on wood) has been running fine for a few weeks by now 
It was not that bad after all with all your help. I could not have done it without having the service manual - after that it was pretty straight forward though time consuming. Even though I busted my back (with all my home projects and this job trying to do at the same time) it was a good experience and I am glad I went for it. I took bunch of detailed digi pics when I was tearing the washer down so if someone is interested let me know.
Thanks guys for all your help. You are great!!!
Frank
Of course, my warranty is up. First the broiler just shut down, no warning, mid broil. The convection oven seemed to be ok when I turned it on, the fan started up ok. But that shut down within a minute. The gas stove top portion works fine. Suggestions?
Thanks Brian
A contractor friend with the right tools tried to get into the control panel, located behind the control knobs on the front. I need to get off the control knobs because there seem to be screws that originate behind them and go through the front of the panel and into little L brackets to hold it on. Kind of a nifty lock to keep me out, is the way I look at it. I will be sooooooo p-ed if I have to pay $200 for someone to come and hit the reset. The $200 is what the repair service around here charges just for "diagnostics".
Any further suggestions on getting down in there?
My dryer squeaks VERY loud while running. I opened the door and looked in where the front of the drum is resting on the dryer (not sure how to explain), anyways it looks like metal to metal contact. Any suggestions? From what I have found online, it looks like dryer drum glides??
Thanks!
You still haven’t provided a model number so I am not entirely sure what you are looking at, but in many cases, there are some screws behind a couple of the knobs that go through the bezel and into a bracket holding the panel place. As for paying for a diagnosis, if someone does come out and reset the thermal fuse, I would expect them to also figure out why it happened. May be a fluke, but if a safety component trips, I like to figure out why.
If the drum has worn down to the metal, then the drum glides are most likely long since gone. Loosen the front panel screws so you can tilt it forward and as long as the blower housing on front is still in good shape, the glides will just slip in place. They are held in place by a tab on one end.
Having trouble separate the inner tub from the shell. The bearing holds on to the shaft very tight. pounded on the shaft with a mellat but did not budge. Is there any special tool needed to separate the shell, or trick? Thank, --JT
I sprayed WD-40 on mine, and used a block of oak wood and a log splitter to pound mine off.
— Begin quote from richappy;111379
I sprayed WD-40 on mine, and used a block of oak wood and a log splitter to pound mine off.
— End quote
Thanks. I was able to separate them. Now, I have problem re-attach the boot back with the shell. The spring is completely off and I have problem get it on the neck of the shell after the drum assembly is hang. I just can’t get the spring on while re-attach the boot at all. Please help.
Thanks.
It helps to have four hands for this, get someone to help, just have patience, it will go on.
Thanks. Unfortunately, after coupla busted knuckles and a scaped foot, a call is placed to the friendly local appliance repairman for an in-house consultation. Hope this won’t hurt-- too badly.
–JT.
My oven gave me the dreaded f3 error and won’t come up to temp. I looked up the part diagram and found part ap3363354 probe, oven temp. Is that the temperature sensor?
I have Crosley Washer and it wont come up to full speed on spin cycle even if it is partially full. I can get it to spin at full speed if it is empty.I think it is the clutch? Any help would be appreciated.
If no roaring noise in spin and no excessive shaking, I would tip the washer back and check the belt AP4024823.