I’ve read all the sticky posts, and read through the service
manual for my refrigerator, but wanted to ask a question
before ordering replacement parts for my fridge.
I have the Samsung RS257BARB model side-by-side
fridge/freezer. My understanding is that this model
has two separate cooling assemblies. The freezer
side is working fine and is cooling down to the selected
temperature.
The evaporator coils in the refrigerator side become covered
by ice after about a week. Going on about three weeks
now, the fridge side would gradually warm up to about
60 degrees F. I’ve gotten pretty good at removing the
plastic housing for the fridge evaporator assembly, pulling out
the trust ol’ hair drier and melting away all the ice.
This time, however, I followed the service manual instructions
on how to force a refrigerator defrost cycle. I did this last
night and let it run it’s course, beeping and all. This morning,
I noticed the temperature relatively unchanged. I then
proceeded to open up the evaporator housing again and found
the familiar ice build-up. Looking at the ice, it seems pretty
clear that the defrost heater did not generate enough (or any)
heat.
I also read in a service bulletin that this and certain other
models have the defrost heater built into the evaporator
assembly.
I’m going to go and pick up a multimeter today to do some further
troubleshooting.
My questions are:
What things should I be testing continuity for? If you can point out
the most common items in the Service Manual, that’d be great.
If question 2 is not the defrost heater, is it possible to replace the
defrost heater without breaking open the evaporator assembly? I’m really
not keen on soldering and recharging the refrigerator with coolant.
Thank you so much for any and all information/advice you can provide.
This site is so awesome for do-it-yourselfers!
Did you end up eliminating as any devices like the Defrost Sensor or Thermal Fuse? I suspect I’m in the same boat as you. I have run the manual defrost function for a few hours, and it seems like the defrost heater is not ever coming on. I replaced my defrost sensor and it didn’t change anything. Later I figured out the right way to measure resistance across it, and found its is within specs. The next time I have to defrost it, I’m going to measure the Thermal fuse, but I believe I’m going to have to replace the defrost heater the way you did.
Now, did they have the exact evap/defrost heater that your fridge required? I don’t believe they carry the one for my model, but another one that was referenced here looks exactly like it.
How big of a job was it to get the defrost heater off of the one in fridge?
Thanks for responding, I’ve got questions out to a bunch of forums on this topic, but most of them are stale.
I went ahead and ordered the evap coil and pulled off the defroster. Same thing you saw, the defrost element was cooked. I suspected as much when I measured the resistance through it with a multi-meter that showed it was open. Occasionally I could move the old one around and get continuity and then it would work better for a few days. The new defroster is 1 week in and all seems to be normal, knock on wood.
I have the same problem - frost built up on the refrigerator side. I am thinking of replacing the thermostat, not sure if that’s the heater problem…anyone can help please?
I tried replacing the defrost sensor, then the thermostat, and the thermistor. None of that worked. After about 3 days the frost would be back. I was not looking forward to trying to replace the defrost element, but once I did, it was not that hard, and it was obvious that it was the problem. It was burned and cracked inside the heating element. I took pictures throughout, send me your email if you’d like to see them
You would measure it for resistance with a voltmeter. You can get one for less than 20 bucks. You need the values in the Samsung manual for the fridge which is available online all over. You have to be sure to set the meter for the expected range. I had it wrong and misread it to be open, so I replaced the defrost sensor, only to find out it was not bad. Again, if it continues to ice up everyday, it is likely because the defrost element is never coming on because it is burnt out.
Hi
I’m having the same problem with my fridge. I was wondering if you could send me throughout pictures of the repair that you did. I was wondering if you could let me know where did you purchased the part that you replaced.
I would greatly appreciate your help.
Thanks!!
My email address marcin_sitarz@msn.com
I am having same problem with a rs2533sw. can you email me pictures of how to replace the heater without changing the evaporator> Email is joechong38@hotmail.com
Thanks
Thanks for your help the samsung repair tech quoted over 700 for repair. Ill let you know how the repair went after I order the parts. I located a manual to test thermositer, defrost sensor but still have to figure out how the test defrost heater.
The person that needed the fridge repaired orderd the part it came in on Monday of last week and I followed the instructions posted on this side and installed it Tuesday. It has been Seven Days and is working great. The reason for the delay in posting is due to when you first turn on the Samsung Refrigerator it throws a 3 code but clears itself right away. Good information. No one wants to work on the samsung in this area.
Hi,
I seem to have the same problem with my Samsung rs257barb
can you e-mail me the photos you have of replacing the defroster element.
my e-mail is vanguardbg@yahoo.com
Dear Eckerj
Please provide the part number for the defrost element for RS257BARB Samsung refrigerator. I only find the complet evaporator coil with heating element
— Begin quote from eckerj;129423
Hello,
I’ve read all the sticky posts, and read through the service
manual for my refrigerator, but wanted to ask a question
before ordering replacement parts for my fridge.
I have the Samsung RS257BARB model side-by-side
fridge/freezer. My understanding is that this model
has two separate cooling assemblies. The freezer
side is working fine and is cooling down to the selected
temperature.
The evaporator coils in the refrigerator side become covered
by ice after about a week. Going on about three weeks
now, the fridge side would gradually warm up to about
60 degrees F. I’ve gotten pretty good at removing the
plastic housing for the fridge evaporator assembly, pulling out
the trust ol’ hair drier and melting away all the ice.
This time, however, I followed the service manual instructions
on how to force a refrigerator defrost cycle. I did this last
night and let it run it’s course, beeping and all. This morning,
I noticed the temperature relatively unchanged. I then
proceeded to open up the evaporator housing again and found
the familiar ice build-up. Looking at the ice, it seems pretty
clear that the defrost heater did not generate enough (or any)
heat.
I also read in a service bulletin that this and certain other
models have the defrost heater built into the evaporator
assembly.
I’m going to go and pick up a multimeter today to do some further
troubleshooting.
My questions are:
What things should I be testing continuity for? If you can point out
the most common items in the Service Manual, that’d be great.
If question 2 is not the defrost heater, is it possible to replace the
defrost heater without breaking open the evaporator assembly? I’m really
not keen on soldering and recharging the refrigerator with coolant.
Thank you so much for any and all information/advice you can provide.
This site is so awesome for do-it-yourselfers!
You have to order the whole assembly, and then remove the defrost element and splice it back into the stock assembly. Its not as difficult as it sounds, and when you get the replacement you will see what I mean.
b
You have to order the whole assembly, and then remove the defrost element and splice it back into the stock assembly. Its not as difficult as it sounds, and when you get the replacement you will see what I mean.
b
Well, it has been 5 years now and the fridge side is now failing to cool… again… :mad:
And now, instead of the replacement evaporator assembly being $49.71, it is now $82.94… a nice 67% increase in 5 years. I surely wish my income were to increase that much… haha
Anyway, here’s to hoping I remember how to do the heater replacement
I thought mine was going bad again and ordered the part. I don’t remember it being in the $80 range, but when I broke it down it started working again, so I don’t have to replace it yet. I linked a good tutorial in an earlier post. Good luck.
boblane said:
I thought mine was going bad again and ordered the part. I don’t remember it being in the $80 range, but when I broke it down it started working again, so I don’t have to replace it yet. I linked a good tutorial in an earlier post. Good luck.
Thank you for linking that tutorial. It’s been 5 years and I can barely remember going through the same process. Hopefully it’ll all come back to me.
Did you have to replace any part before it started working again?
Unfortunately, I didn’t run the manual defrost cycle before opening it up and thawing out all the ice with a heat gun. That might have told me if the thermistor was good or bad. I went ahead and ordered the evaporator assembly, just in case the heating element has fried again.
If it freezes up again before the part shows up, I’ll try a manual defrost cycle. Though, my gut feeling is that it is the heating element again.
Hopefully it’ll all come back to me.