I have a Samsung RS2534ww Side by Side refrigerator that is about 5 years old, the fan was making a loud noise, so I took the inside cover off of the refrigerator side and the coils were basically a solid sheet of ice. This happened a couple weeks ago and I unplugged the unit and did a complete defrost for about 2 days, powered on and reset the unit. A few days later the coils froze up again. The fan seems to be running a little loud and when you open the fridge door the fan shuts off, I believe the fan should keep running while the door is open, correct? Anyone have any ideas on what I can do to troubleshoot this, I spoke with the Samsung tech team and they were worthless.
Thanks in advance
You probably have an automatic defrost problem. This ice buildup probably causes the fan noise. Lots of models do cut the fan off when you open the door. While you’re troubleshooting it you can use a hairdryer to speed up the defrosting.
The defrost thermostat is clamped on the coils. It should show continuity with an ohm meter when it’s cold and open when warm(above 35 degrees or so).
The defrost heater is at the coils and melts the ice during defrost. Disconnect it and it should show continuity between the two wires.
If both of these parts are ok the problem is the defrost timer(defrost control) part 6 on this diagram of your machine compartment & cabinet back. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5172306
Are the Samsung and Maytag fridges the same? The diagram given looks a little different than my fridge. I have three wire harnesses that plug in at the upper right part directly above the coils. What does the defrost thermostat look like, and also what exactly is meant by "the defrost heater is at the coils"?
Part 38 on the freezer compartment diagram is the thermostat. It should be in contact with the coils. I believe the heater is part 43. It’s below the coils so it will melt all the ice.
I did find the samsung on a sears parts site and the diagrams are the same.
Here is a service manual
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/SAM0096.pdf
For some reason I cannot actually view the entire manual, Explorer keeps shutting down, hopefully you will have better luck.
And now for the bad news.
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/ASC20051129001.pdf
I had to read this a couple times as I could not believe a manufacturer could be this stupid!!!
You referred to the "Freezer Compartment" in the previous post, my problem is with the "Refrigerator Compartment" diagram 10 correct?
What I can see in my fridge is this http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details_lgimg.aspx?part_id=4136651&image=0
I also have this http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5172306 that plugs in and runs over to the brass part of the coils)
I then have another wire harness that plugs in and runs down the right side of the coil and has a red and a black wire, the end is wrapped in foam, under the foam seems to be covered is some type of blue plastic.
Can you now tell me which part is which and how to test them.
Thanks again
I have heard of that before. If it was mine and it went bad(which we don’t know in this case yet) I would get a heater and rig it up with another one and place it like regular manufacturers do.
Here is another service manual which looks more relevant
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/SAM0059.pdf
Your first link looks like the tube with the wires coming out of it is the defrost heater. Could not find a spec for it but is probably around 30 ohms.
The manual does show a thermal fuse in the evap area. This should be 0 ohms.
Also shows a thermistor, the resistance should change with temperature, see the table in the manual.
You will need a meter.
If you do not have one, I would suggest you purchase a meter. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
- Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
- Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
- When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.
woodchuckie
Hopefully the heater is OK. I also would be looking at a jiggery pokery if it was blown. Perhaps a length of pipe heating cable would work here depending on the wattage.
O.K. I tested everything around the coil and all wires had continuity, but I also tested the heater that is connected to the main compartment that pulls off of the inside back of the fridge(the heater is right below the fan) #29 in this diagram http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/frame_diagram.aspx?&model_id=5172306&diagram_id=1360535&NewWindow=1, it did not show continuity. I assume this should be replaced and should be the problem, correct?
Thanks
I do not think this part would effect the defrost operation but am not sure.
Perhaps Woodchuckie or someone else knows.
I would try to force the unit into a defrost, see Page 8 in the second manual I linked to.
You are correct I took that heater part to a repair shop and they told me the same thing, that part does not effect the coils or defrost system. So back to where were at I tested all things connected to and around the coils and they all showed either continuity or resistance. What are the next steps? What else can I test?
You mentioned step 8 in the manual to force into defrost mode but I can’t get my the manual to load to page 8.
Thanks
I do not know where I came up with Page 8, it should be page 30.
Here is a work around to get into the manual which should work.
Click on the link.
Let the manual load into a tab or page
Then "Save As" the manual to a folder or desktop on your computer.
You should then have no problem viewing the saved .pdf file
O.K. I tried something different, I did the self diagnostics test on page 32 of the Manual and my number 3 light came on. The error on the chart says it is the [SIZE=2][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]REFRIGERATOR DEFROST SENSOR, you can view the details of the error on page 32. So what exactly does this mean for me, where is the defrost sensor located? what all would need to be replaced? How do I test this other than the self-diagnostics?[/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT]
If this is the defrost sensor it is referring to http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details_lgimg.aspx?part_id=4136842&image=0 #45 on diagram 10. I tested it and it is showing about 20 ohms.
[SIZE=2][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]Thanks Again[/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]
[/SIZE][/FONT]
I think you are on to something!!!
[SIZE=2][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]where is the defrost sensor located?[/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT]
[SIZE=2][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]Take a look at Page 17 Evapor[/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]ator in Refrigerator
what all would need to be replaced?
Just the sensor from what I can see
How do I test this other than the self-diagnostics?[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][COLOR=Blue]
[/COLOR]I tested it and it is showing about 20 ohms.
Look on Page 62 it has a chart for temp/resistance of the sensor
Note that all the readings are Kilohms
So at 20 ohms the unit thinks it is probably around 200 degrees F
Therefore the defrost would never come on.
If this is the defrost sensor it is referring to http://www.appliancepartspros.com/pa…136842&image=0 #45 on diagram 10.
Looks like a thermistor to me, you will know for sure when you remove the old one
O.K. it looks like were making some progress now, but I am a little confused with your last reply.
- I looked at page 17 but that does not tell me where the sensor is?
- Yes you are correct, according to the picture on page 17 this http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details_lgimg.aspx?part_id=4136842&image=0 is the Thermistor.
- IS THE THERMISTOR THE SAME AS THE DEFROST SENSOR, IS THIS THE ITEM THAT NEEDS REPLACED?
If not, where exaclty can I find it as I do not see it in the image on page 17
By the way, you probably already know but that image on page 17 is exactly what I have in my fridge.
Thanks
-
I looked at page 17 but that does not tell me where the sensor is?
I think this is labeled as Thermistor in the picture
[COLOR=Blue] -
Yes you are correct, according to the picture on page 17 this http://www.appliancepartspros.com/pa…136842&image=0 is the Thermistor.[/COLOR]
I think so -
IS THE THERMISTOR THE SAME AS THE DEFROST SENSOR, IS THIS THE ITEM THAT NEEDS REPLACED?
Yes, I think so. I have not actually worked on one of these so am guessing a bit.
But the thermistor you measured is definitely shot so I am assuming it is the part that requires replacing.
O.K. before I order this part, all of the readings were with the fridge turned off, and the coils at room temperature. Obviously
- When you say the sensor at 20 ohms is reading 200 degrees, Should I test this part after letting the fridge run for a while and allowing the sensor/coils to get cold? Would that make a difference?
- I tested one of the other wire harnesses and it is reading 90 ohms(when the meter is set on 200 and the fridge is off)? I am not sure what this piece is called but you can find it in the image on page 17. It is on the upper right side of the coils. There is a black rubber piece that covers part of the coil it loops up and comes down and has a red wire coming out of the bottom and also has a white wire that goes into the harness that runs down the right side of the coils. In the image this piece it is directly under the "E" in the WORD Capillary Tub"e".
Does the 90 ohm reading on this seem correct at all?
Thanks
Did not see your last post.
I will have to sit down and go over the manual again.
[COLOR=#000000]First just a check on how you rae doing the resistance checks. When measuring for resistance you must:
A. Have power off, otherwise you can blow your meter.
B. You have to disconnect the device you are measuring or at least disconnect one side of it. This eliminates the possibility that you are reading an alternate/parallel circuit path.
-
135 ohms, second time 155 ohms, which according to the chart shows the temperature between 24-32 degrees, which should be correct.[/COLOR]
To me the chart on page 62 is showing readings in Kilohms not ohms -
Also in the image on page 17 it says thermal fuse on the right hand side? This was also tested, it showed .5 ohms
This looks OK to me. It is always a good idea to short your meter leads together before doing resistance measurements. This will tell you where the meter’s real/true zero is. It is not uncommon to have some offset. -
I then tested the part that is explained in question 2 of my last post and it read about the same 90 ohms. Is this the heater that is built into the coils?
Yes I think it is the heater.
I could not find a spec for it in the manual so would have to say that 90 ohms is probably OK.
[COLOR=#000000]Any ideas where to go from here?
Sensor still looks bad to me.
[/COLOR]
Yes either everything is off or I am disconnecting it from the circuit before testing.
Pertaining to the sensor reading, temperature and chart comparison. Yes it says the chart is in KILO OHMS, but my sensor is reading 155 OHMS when it is cold. According to the chart for my sensor to read, 32 degrees for an example, the resistance would have to be 13,289 OHMS. Does that seem a little high to you? Could the chart have the decimal places incorrectly positioned? Instead of 13.290 should the chart say .13290.
What do you think?
Thanks again for all your help it is greatly appreciated!!