I have the same problem. If I hear the machine stop agitating and then go to tub drain/spin cycle, I hear the pump draining the tub…but it won’t spin unless I open and reclose the lid. There is a pause between the agitation cycle and the tub drain/spin cycle, so does that mean my timer is cutting the power? I’m just not sure if replacing the timer would be the total fix for my scenario. Anyway to verify this?
I’ve been an automotive mechanic for 35 years, so electrical and mechanic equipment isn’t an issue for me. So please don’t be shy in explaining something technically to me.
Thanks in advance for any help. Its much appreciated. I already replaced the clutch assembly and now the machine doesn’t have the loud "clack" noise when the tub does actually spin in the latter spin cycle.
I am assuming this is a direct drive Whirlpool made machine.
Your machine has a neutral drain, meaning when it starts to drain the transmission shifts into neutral so it is not trying to turn the tub while it is full of water.
The timer needs to pause the motor after the drain is complete. This causes the transmission to shift into spin. If the motor does not pause, no shift. So the timer is not doing its "pause" job, and when you open and close the lid you are doing the pause job for it. That is why it starts spinning after you do that.
The local appliance store does not have a timer in stock, so waiting until next week to get one. In the meantime, is there any way to jumper it to temporarily "get by" and confirm that is the issue?
Also, I would like to better understand the role of the time in the spin cycle. I understand that the time ultimately switches power to the motor (in my case the motor appears to be running correctly). However, I do not understand how the timer controls tub spin. That looks mechanical to me.
I do not know of any way to test the timer. The test is basically what you have done, when you open the lid you mimic the timer stopping the motor to allow the shift out of neutral to take place.
You can try turning the timer vigorously for about 15 seconds, sometimes that will give you a temporary fix.
If you buy from the part from this site you will probably get it less expensive and you can return it if it does not fix the problem (no, those of us who respond do not work for APP, we are volunteers who do not receive any compensation from the company, so we can recommend them with independence)
Well, any feedback? Mine is doing the same and I did clean the contacts inside the timer several years ago. I cleaned them again; only one seemed burned. I have a 11092583810 Kenmore Washer. The cheapest timer I found was on (withheld) for $89 but now I’ll check this site for a price. I would rather just replace the contacts if they can be purchased. Can I buy just the contact pack for the washer instead of buying the whole timer?
I have the same problem but I did replace the timer and it does the exact same thing. The washer in whole operates perfectly except it won’t spin unless I open lid or shut timer off and turn back on. Any other suggestions other than the timer and lid switch?
yeah. I ordered from appliance pros, and it does pause before it goes into spin cycle. Its like the clutch is not releasing from some reason. but it pauses for 5 seconds or more after agitating. not sure what do do now…but i know im not buying a new one. ill just keep opening the lid.
you think theres any chance its the start motor capacitor???
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No, because your motor would not turn at all if it was the start capacitor. It is the pause at that timed moment that causes it to spin after draining. My lid switch was acting up so I replaced it and I just leave the lid up until I am ready to drain and spin. I do not know what to tell you other than keep lifting the lid. I have been doing this for some time now and it is not as much of a bother as I thought it would be; it turns out my clothes get washed faster rather than me forgetting they are there and getting side tracked.
The pause directly after agitation has nothing to do with neutral drain. That pause is to allow the motor to stop before starting again in the opposite direction. Then it should drain without spin for a minute or two and then pause again. The second pause is to allow the neutral drain to release. Then it will start again spinning and draining. If the pause after drain does not release neutral drain then there’s likely something wrong with the neutral drain mechanism in the gearcase. You can rule out the clutch by observing the clutch hub during drain and spin. You must remove the cabinet, bypass the lid switch and observe the clutch hub. During the initial drain period directly after agitate, the clutch hub does not rotate. After the motor pauses and starts again, the clutch hub should be rotating. If it is and the basket is not spinning, then the clutch is slipping.
Eric - thanks for that info. If the clutch hub is slipping why would an intensional pause (lifting the lid or pushing in and pulling out the start button) cause the unit to thump into the spin mode?
i have a whirlpool dishwasher and i am in the process of replacing the chopper assembly. I noticed that the black gear-like on the end of the pump shaft( that connect to the plastic gear-like on the chopper assembly) has one of the bevels have gone, the other three look ok. I think i may need to replace this, but does this make a big difference with the washing of dishwasher, since i still have most of the mess gear in tact. I have not noticed any cracks on the gear, just part of one of the bevels are gone.
My LG gas dryer display went out after my wife hit the start button during operation. I replaced the display control panel printed circuit board (Part # EBR36858901) but still have the same problem. There is another PCB called the main control panel (Part # EBR36858802) but both of these boards are expensive and I don’t have a way of insuring that they will work. There is power to the machine as the drum light works. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
Hi there, my turn table won’t turn at all. We looked at the piece underneath the plate and it is not cracked but I can pull it up as it’s loose, not sure if this is normal. How can we get it to turn? Thanks.
If you checked the coupler and it’s OK then open the bottom cover and locate the turn table motor WB26X10038
Take the two wires off it and use the voltmeter to check for 21VAC across the wires with the MW turned on.
If the correct power is present - replace the motor, if not - replace the control board WB27X10655
My LG gas dryer display went out after my wife hit the start button during operation. I replaced the display control panel printed circuit board (Part # EBR36858901) but still have the same problem. There is another PCB called the main control panel (Part # EBR36858802) but both of these boards are expensive and I don’t have a way of insuring that they will work. There is power to the machine as the drum light works. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
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I have replaced the main control PCB (EBR36858802) and have solved the problem. Thank you for your help. A word of advice for other people with this issue…Carefully check the individual circuits on the board if you think there is a problem. After I replaced two different boards when only one needed to be replaced, I discovered a brown liquid oozing out of one of the circuits on the bad board and if I had noticed it before, I could have saved myself some time and $100.00. All one needs to do is look at them to see if they appear damaged in any way. Thanks again to this forum for your help.
