Washer agitates and drains but doesn't spin.

I have a Kenmore "stackable" "Laundry Center" Model 98702 (full model 417.98702891) bought new in 2001.

The problem is with the washer: It won’t spin. In every other way it works fine (i.e., it agitates, pumps out water, etc.)

The same problem arose ~ 2 months ago and a Sears Technician made a service call and concluded that the motor was bad. I replaced the motor and it worked fine again:) - until now. The scenario is identical. I replaced the motor again (it was warranted for life) but that did not fix the problem this time.:frowning:

A few pieces of info:
[INDENT]1. The motor is good.
2. The pump operates fine.
3. The lid switch is fine.
4. The capacitor checks out fine.
5. I spoke with a service technician on the phone and went over all of the above:[INDENT]In his opinion the only possible cause of the problem is that it has a faulty timer (the Cycle Control on the panel).
[/INDENT][/INDENT]I’ve removed the timer but can’t figure out how to confirm whether or not it is, indeed, faulty.:confused:

I’m inclined to order a new switch but am afraid that if that doesn’t cure the problem then I’ll have spent that $ for naught. [I](It’s not a cheap part and would be nonreturnable if installed without solving the problem.:eek:)

[/I]PLEASE advise.:slight_smile:

I find that cleaning the contacts can make it work SOME of the time but it probably is best to go ahead and replace the timer. Emery cloth on the contacts or maybe a fingernail file. Don’t take the timer apart unless you just want to do an autopsy. They are hard to get back together.

— Begin quote from SublimeMasterJW;22650

I find that cleaning the contacts can make it work SOME of the time but it probably is best to go ahead and replace the timer. Emery cloth on the contacts or maybe a fingernail file. Don’t take the timer apart unless you just want to do an autopsy. They are hard to get back together.

— End quote

Just thought I’d pass along the following update FYI:

I tried - having nothing to lose - cleaning the contacts with little tri-folded strips of dry, 1200 grit 3M wet/dry sandpaper, turning the timer dial so that each set of contacts in turn were in the "closed" position.

Followed up by applying a bit of contact cleaner to each, replacing the plastic cover and reinstalling in machine.

It worked! (At least for now . . .) So I reassembled/reinstalled the control panel, covers, etc., put it though a couple of clothes-less wash cycles and it performed flawlessly. (The only "snag" was that I had a couple of screws left over after putting it all back together :eek:. Don’t you just hate when that happens . . ? Hope they weren’t too important. Sigh.)

Ironically, the new timer I’d ordered arrived later the same day. I guess I’ll hold on to it for a few weeks just in case my "repair" ends up short-lived, but at least I feel confident that your initial diagnosis of the timer being at fault was right on :cool:.

Thanks very much again for your help and input.

[COLOR=Navy][B]Thanks, too, to the folks who run/oversee this Forum :D.

[/B](Lastly, an apology to all for my lack of brevity :o. I’ve got a feeling my posts have been rather long and rambling in the scheme of things. In future I promise to try to be more concise.)
[/COLOR]

My boss got one of these where I work to clean uniforms. GLGH1642FS I liked it & got one for home. Now we’re both having the same problem. The thing fills, turns to clean, drains then doesn’t spin. Clothes are always dripping wet after. Of course the warrenty expired a few months ago. Seemed crazy I should have to pay extra for a warrenty so my $1200 appliance would hold up for more than a year. Sign of the times I guess. I’ll try to replace the timer. I’ve been to several appliance forums. These machines have a lot of bugs to be worked out yet.

The correction is to install the control kit which contains of the display board, the power relay board, the wire harness and the complete installation instructions. This job is not going to be too difficult for the man you described.

  • The part number for the control kit is AP3382408

Here are the break down diagrams for the Thermador oven http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?diagram_id=194154&&model_id=232432

Gene.

I hope I am using this forum properly. I cannot help but relay a similar situation with my Whirlpool Washer Model WTW5100SQ0. It will fill, agitate and drain but will not spin and the tub will not spin even if hand turn. The lid switch is bypassed, known good timer used, motor circuit checked out, known good coil used. I took the original transmission brake clutch assembly out and tried two other similar ones. In each case I can hear the washer switch to spin and the motor will turn but the tub will not spin even hand turn both direction. I know I am missing something but what? Thank you the help so far from this forum.

Thank you. In one of the tests I took the water pump off but kept the motor in place and observed the direction the motor. It turned counter clockwise during agitate, clockwise during drain and counter clockwise during the spin cycle. I can hear some metal sound in between end of drain and beginning of the spin cycles but the tub would not turn.

Go ahead and get the motor off and you will see the problem. A broken drive coupling.

Thank you. Coupling ok. Lid switch bypassed ok. Two timers used during different tests. Also two capacitors used. Also two transmission/brake clutch used—In both cases washer will fill ok, agitate ok, drain, ok but not spin even when tub is manually turned during spin. Motor taken outside and ran washer—motor turned ok after fill stops without hesitation. In agitate motor turned counter clockwise. In drain, motor turn clockwise. In spin motor turn counter clockwise. When motor reinstalled and tested, same problem–fill, agitate, drain but no tub spin. Help.

must be a bad timer

I hate to sound like a broken phono record. Everything tested out fine. The motor will turn in spin but the two trans will not turn tub. Timer from a known good identical unit used, same. Now what?

Remove the outer panel, jump the lid switch and observe the clutch housing above the tranny. If it spins in spin mode, but basket will not turn, you have a worn clutch and probably bad brake shoes. This is assuming you have a direct drive washer. Post results.

The ear on the cam driver may be broken off and not realeasing the brake or the basket drive itself might be bad.[ATTACH]1574[/ATTACH]

Thank you again. Last I noticed that ear was good on both trans/clutch/brake assemblies but one was pretty oily, the other frozen and I have tomanually turn it loose. I will check again and advise. I will also perform the lid switch test and advise.