Need help with this please. I have a stacked washer dryer Frigidaire Gallery series washer is FWT445GES0. the washer will fill but not agitate or move forward. If I place it on rinses and spins it will drain and refill withoiut spinning and advance thru the rest of the cycle. not sure where to look for error codes no digital display on the face.
Could be the lid switch.
If you have some experience, know what a by-pass is, and can use a meter, you may call me at ()*-****and I will walk you through it.
Otherwise, save yourself the headache and call a technician.
I have a meter somewhere and know how to use it. door locks and wont open until cycle completes.
You may want to check for an obstruction in the pump. If it isn’t pumping out, it will not spin.
fills and drains fine. will check the pump when I get some time, busy week. thinking it might be motor or timer not sure how to check those.
ok finally was able to check voltages and resistances. the SCU appears to be good all that checked out within parameters. the motor windings all looked good except the motor thermal protector pins 7 &8 the read short, schematics say less tha 1 ohm. Am I correct in thinging motor is shot or is short normal?
Not sure on the parameters, but it should tell you on the tech sheet if you have one there.
Frigidaire and Kenmore get their boards from the same vendor. So even if it showed a code, …it would probably be the "wrong" code anyway. LOL
I have seen people change the board 3 times and "not" solve the problem. And you can’t get a refund on those boards. Kenmore and Frigidaire make a fortune on selling boards because of this issue and therefore have done nothing to correct the problem.
It was an …"executive decision". LOL
Every time I see one of these (drains but no spin) I replace the door switch …and it always works. LOL
door lock and unlocks fine, but how would i check it anyway?
Yes. The door will lock and unlock, and even show it on the indicator, but, …for some reason, it is not "telling" the board what it is doing. It’s a communication issue. So the board has no way to know if it’s latched or not and therefore will not allow a spin.
I’ve never figured out a way to actually test the switch, …but it is my experience that has lead me to this conclusion.
I will say that the switch is the lesser of all evils as well. Because if I am wrong, …and that has happened on occasion, …(lol) …it’s cheaper to be wrong on the switch than it is the board or the motor. And, …it eliminates it from being the possible culprit. LOL
All I know …(lol) …is in my experience, …"that’s" what fixes it every single time.
I walk in …check and make sure it drains properly (no obstructions in the pump), …and change the door latch assembly.
On the Maytag Neptune, …you have to replace the switch AND the upper board. They go hand in hand. You can actually "see" the burned resisters on the board on the door latch circuit. It’s the latch that takes out the board.
On the Frigidaire, …I have only had to replace the door latch …and the problem goes away.
I get one of these …about …maybe once every 4 or 5 months.
Kenmore "and" Frigidaire. But, "mostly" Frigidaire.
It has literally worked for me "every" single time.
In the last 10 years, I have not "eaten" one door switch yet.
So, …I guess what I’m saying is that the odds are pretty good that …it’s probably the door switch. LOL
maybe i need more convincing but the machine sounds like it wants to work, but no motor spinning, when i open the detergent drawer or tug on the locked door it stops making noise until i close/push it
I most certainly understand your dilemma and wholeheartedly wish that I could be more helpful. If you have followed all the directions on the tech sheet, and still have not reached a conclusion, …(lol) …
…I’m still going with the door switch. LOL
Please, …if you would, …do me a favor and post the final conclusion when you have reached it. "Cause, …if it turns out to be anything else, I really need to know about it.
I make my bread and butter doing appliance repair and cannot afford to be making any mistakes out there in the field.
If I was looking at your machine, …I would replace the door latch. If I turned out to be wrong, I’d put the old one back in and keep the new one for someone else who needed it.
Then I would start digging deeper on your machine. LOL
For the record, …I have no Frigidaire door latch assemblies on my truck. That’s because I have used every single one that I have ordered. LOL
It could be something else, like an rpm sensor, or dispenser sensor, or even a pressure switch. But, …I usually only see that on Maytags and GEs.
Frigidair + drain and no spin = door switch …every single time.
I’ve lost money on motors and boards because of this "very" issue and mis-diagnosed the problem because of misleading fault codes generated by the board which is intentionally programed that way by the manufacturer.
But, I’ve never lost money on a door latch.
LOL
just an update, turns out the guy who owned my multimeter had the wrong fuse in it so i was getting bad readings. Proper fuse in, readings better, motor is shorted on all contacts, ordering a motor.
Chukcharp said:
maybe i need more convincing but the machine sounds like it wants to work, but no motor spinning, when i open the detergent drawer or tug on the locked door it stops making noise until i close/push it
It seems that it is a rather common problem. One way to confirm that it is the switch ; Remove the back cover on the controls and check voltage on the switch itself. Leave power on and timer in the spin position. Then one side of the switch will be 120 volts and the other should be the same (if the switch is ok)
I had the same problem that was solved by changing the switch. It cost me 40$ at a maytag parts reseller.
Watch out for shorting when you stick a probe in there !