Will be taking this thing apart for the third time… Here’s the deal, my friends: My Whirlpool top loading direct drive washer model GSW9650LW0 will go through the wash cycle but will not spin or agitate. When it gets to the parts of the cycle where it’s suppose to turn back and forth or spin you can hear the engine going and what sounds like gears grinding or something of that nature.
In taking it apart, I found one of the plastic motor couplings to be broken (http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details_lgimg.aspx?part_id=3963893&image=0). This website even mentions that a new design reinforced with metal sleeves is now used so I thought, "ok, that must break a lot - poor design or cheap material - guess I’m on the right track".
So I’ve purchased the part and replaced it, put it all together and can hear the engine going or trying to go but the drive tube / vertical rod is not turning. The grinding sound is gone but it seems like the gearcase is stuck. I took the gearcase apart again but nothing appears wrong (at least not to my untrained eye).
:mad:
Maybe I didn’t put it back together correctly from the first time I opened it to look for the problem but I’m wondering if maybe there is a special sequence that you have follow to put all this together so that the engine and gearbox are in synch or the gears are in place or something you have to do to make the parts lock together and the gears come together or something in the cycle to get back in synch.
OR, maybe the coupling broke because the engine was going and the gearbox was stuck so the coupling breaking might be an after-effect not a root cause.
Appreciate any and all info, tips and tricks you might offer. I’ve spent like 5 hours on this site so far, reading and decifering diagrams and decided to ask for help - thanks!
Generally it isn’t recommended to tear into the gear case, but… You might want to check to see if the brake or clutch is locked up. And also check to see if the lidswitch is connected or broken.
…before finding the problem with the broken motor couplings the gearcase was taken apart to look for the issue. Nothing was wrong with it but apparently it was not put back together properly and the gears broke when the machine was turned back on. I ordered a whole new gearcase and now the machine agitates but does NOT spin or drain. What do you think? Is it the brake shoes dragging? What do you do, replace them?
Our whirpool direct drive will agitate but won’t drain the water and spin. I removed the pump and motor and with an electric drill I was able to turn the coupler and have it properly agitate in one direction and spin in the other but when I place the motor back in it won’t spin. You would think that huge washer motor would be stronger then a regular electric screw driver. So, since it won’t drain the water do you think it’s the pump? (though it appeared fine when I had looked it at) or the brakes? or something else?
Thanks for the help!
Ed
PS: without using the electric drill, just with my fingers I can spin the coupler in the agitate direction but when I switch directions it will spin a little and then when the breaks engage it will get really stiff - pretty much unable to turn it any further by hand to engage spin mode.
You have stuck brake shoes. For repair info, go to my "sticky" above, "replacing direct drive washer brake shoes". For the no agitate problem, remove the pump and see if it will now agitate, if so, you have a jammed pump.
I bought and replaced the entire brake assembly and clutch but no change: it fills up with water, agitates but when it gets to the part of the cycle where it’s supposed to drain and spin I just hear a constant humming like the motor can’t move.
So, based on these symptoms what do you think it might be?
coupler: was broken and first thing replaced
gear case: replaced the whole thing
brake shoes and clutch: replaced the whole thing
pump??? I can manually turn the pump. It doens’t spin easily but it does spin.
the main cycle knob? could it be a problem with it? could it be a problem with the wires? or something short circuiting?
I removed the inner and outer tub, cleaned them thoroughly (nasty smelly layer of gunk on them). There was nothing obstructing the tub.
I removed the water pump from the motor and removed the motor from the unit. So the motor is now isolated from the water pump and everything else (gear case, clutch, brakes, drive block, tub, everything). It’s just sitting by itself connected to the wiring. I cut a piece of wire from my surround sound and closed the circuit simulating that the lid is closed.
I can now operate the on/off cycle knob and make the motor spin without any external resistance. What I’m finding is this:
When I turn the control knob to the agitate position the motor comes on spinning in the counter clockwise direction just fine. When I place the knob in the drain/spin position I just hear a humming sound from the motor but it does not turn at all. Eventually it gets hot enough where some sort of thermostat turns it off to prevent damage. However, if I give the motor a little spin to help it get started then it does spin in the clockwise direction just fine.
So, the motor, totally isolated from any other mechanical part, works fine in the counterclockwise direction in the agitate mode. But, it needs a little help in order to spin in the clockwise direction that drains the water and spins the tub.
I even connected the pump to the motor without connecting the motor to the rest of the unit and turned it on. I got the humming sound and gave it a little push on the coupler side and it came on and successfully drained all the water that was in the tub.
So, the motor works fine in one direction but not the other unless you help it begin to spin. Is that a bad capacitor? Are there two capacitors? one for each direction of spin? Where are they located? Or is it a problem with the cycle knob control or timer control?
I’d rather not replace the entire motor if I don’t have to.
You probably have a bad timer, pull the cover off when the timer knob is in the wash position and check all contacts that should be closed. You probably will find one that is burnt.
Drier set on Perm press you start it after awile it turns off clothes still wet . There is heating time still left on selector. If you let it sit for several minutes it will restart, and run somemore sometimes finishing cycle. Had a repairman look at it said needed a new motor $300.00 plus said just buy a new drier. Times are tough is motor problem I will put in myself?
The symptoms are symptomatic of a motor failing. Given the age of your machine and the cost and difficulty of putting in a new motor and the likelihood of something else failing I think the advice to replace the machine is good. In our area you can get a nice, no frills dryer on sale for around $300 to $325 and sometimes less, and that is what I would advise you to do.
