In an earlier posting, I failed to mention a key element. Here it is added to the earlier posting: GE washer when tasked to function, will fill then stops and no further mode. No motor hum either. Lid switched wires jumped and FUSE ON WHITE/RED LINE TESTED GOOD. What could be the problem? Need advice on this one as wife anxious. Thanks much.
Remove the front panel, locate the LED on top of the motor (under the top cover) and watch how this LED is blinking. Post the results.
Here are the breakdown diagrams and http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5220807
Gene.
When the washer filled to the st level and stopped, it was several seconds or maybe minutes when the LED blinked once then in series of 4 blinks. I tested the mode shifter and it is open. Is it supposed to be closed? If so, does it come separately or with the shaft which is expensive? Thank you very much for the tip. I really appreciate it.
Thank you. I took the shifter apart and found the coil to have continuity. It’s the thermofuse in the coil that was open so I replaced it with a regular fuse of same amperage (2A). The washer added only one function to fill and that is it drained during first and second cycle but still no agitate or spin. The LED kept blinking in 4 blinks all the time and the timer knob/dial did not move any.
— Begin quote from Narapni;172561
… It’s the thermofuse in the coil that was open so I replaced it with a regular fuse of same amperage (2A)…
— End quote
The coil is not serviceable and the whole assembly must be replaced if the circuit is open. The fuse you installed will cause a fire.
So far reappearance of the same error code can show a bad motor as well. Did you run the error code removal procedure after you replaced the fuse? If you did, then the motor has gone bad. If you did not, then make sure the lid switch is working properly and clean errors from memory by doing the following:
Disconnect power until an audible clicking sound is heard when the inverter capacitor discharges (approximately 15 seconds). Open and close the lid 10 times in any 12 seconds period within the first 30 seconds of power-up. Errors would not clear if washer is in either agitate or spin mode.
If the same error code will shown again, the motor has to be replaced.
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The motor [part]AP4368247[/part]
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The shaft and motor shifter assembly [part]AP4380186[/part]
Gene.
Thank you very much again. Have just received new motor and mode shifter shaft assembly and will install shortly. Do I need to do the error code correction before powering up the washer with the new parts installed?
Replaced mode shifter and motor as advised. Still no agitate, timer knob sits still and green light on motor blinks in single blinks continuously after water fills and stops. Any suggestion?
Sorry for the delay.
I’ve read in your very first post that you tried to bypass the lid switch at the beginning, but I would like you to do it again. Very likely at this time that the problem is there.
Gene.
Very sorry, I forgot to mention that when I changed motor and mode shifter I also installed the new lid switch. Should I now disconnect the magnetic lid switch assy and bypass it?
Did you run the error code removal procedure after you replaced the motor and shifter (described in the previous reply)? This procedure required by GE after any repairs done.
If it would not help, then bypass the lid switch just to make sure there is nothing wrong.
I do not like to say it, but there is a small chance that the bad motor and/or shifter damaged the control board. It’s very seldom, but there is nothing else left.
Gene.
Thank you. Did the error code after installation of new motor, mode shifter and lid switch. LED continues to blink in single blinks. Have already ordered new control circuit board. Will advise what transpires after this one.
This is the latest in this GE Hydrowave model WJRE5500G1WW. When I inherited it, it will fill and drain only–no agitate or spin. The lid switch was already bypassed. I did the code correction. I also tested the motor outside. Nothing changed. Fuse was tested good and mode shifter coil tested open. So I ordered and received a new motor and new mode shifter shaft and installed them and ran the washer. Same problem—fill ok, no agitate, drain ok, no spin and so on. The LED changed a bit this time–straight blinking once every second or so. I then ordered and installed a new circuit board and tested–same…fill, no agitate, drain, no spin. the LED continues the same blining like the harbor light. I am ready to give up after having spent a bundle on this washer.
With the lid closed check for 120 VAC between the orange wire (pin 6 of the C2 inverter connector) and the ground. Post the result.
Does the display continue to count down when the washer should wash and/or spin?
Gene.
Thank you very much. Will conduct the test and report.
The green display lights appear be normal oonly during fill but not during when it’s supposed to agitate or spin. Today I went over the error code several times as per the instructions (with the new lid switch installed) and later the llid removed and the to two wires (yellow and orange) connected. Nothing changed.
I took the motor outside and observed if it turned at anytime. It did not. Only the water pump and water level switch seem to work for now.
The LED continues to blink the moment the power is connected.
There is 120 VAC during fill, LED continues to blink, fill stops, LED continues to blink, display light shows fill,120 VAC still there but motor not turning. Pump activated, 120 VAC still there, I hear a click like the old time timer click, display light shows rinse, pump continues to pump water, lid open, voltage drops to zero, lid closed, voltage back to 120, pump continues, motor idle, display light goes to spin while pump continues but motor does not turn, pump stops, end of washing? dislpay lights all off but 120 volts remain. LED continues to blink.
— Begin quote from Narapni;190606
There is 120 VAC during fill, LED continues to blink, fill stops, LED continues to blink, display light shows fill,120 VAC still there but motor not turning. Pump activated, 120 VAC still there, I hear a click like the old time timer click, display light shows rinse, pump continues to pump water, lid open, voltage drops to zero, lid closed, voltage back to 120, pump continues, motor idle, display light goes to spin while pump continues but motor does not turn, pump stops, end of washing? dislpay lights all off but 120 volts remain. LED continues to blink.
— End quote
Check for 120 VAC between the pins 6 & 3 of the C2 inverter connector with the lid closed.
Make sure there is correct signal from the water pressure switch (10 on the diagram) to the control board.
Gene.
Thank you. Just for the record again–the washer was received with an open coil in the mode shifter and it was filling and draining only. Then the mode shifter shaft assembly was replaced. It did not change matters. The motor was also replaced. Still the same. The control board was replaced—nothing changed. After your advice today I tested the water level switch first when power was off and it was closed. I turned the washer on and tested pins 6 and 3 and there was voltage. I then ohmed the water level switch with the power on and it remained closed during operation. With the power off, I blew the air hose to the water level switch but the needle did not go back to zero. It stayed halfway back to zero. What am I getting into after all these expensive replacements? Dont’ tell me.
There are three wires connected to the water level switch. Remove them all (memorize which one where goes) and connect them together. Start the washer on the spin cycle and see if it’ll spin. It will continue filling - do not worry about it.
Post the results.
Gene.
P.S. The mode shifter and the motor were bad. No doubt about it. The control board was questionable and I told you about it.
This is the report based on your advice. In this GE Model WJRE550G1WW, there are only two wires from the water level switch. The middle terminal on the switch has been disabled.
The brown line goes from the switch terminal 7 to pin 10 on the control board and orange wire from terminal 15 on the switch and split to pin 9 and pin 7.
During this test the motor was taken outside but connected for observation, lid swtich closed, washer fills and stops. LED blinks continuously. No agitate. Then it will pump the water but no spin then comes to stop then repeats the cycle. During the filling, the level switch is closed (brown and orange) and when tub is full, will not fully open.
Conductin the test thus: During filling the two wires (brown and orange) from the level switch were removed from the switch and connected. Water continues filling but the motor just sat there. Also during the drain, they were connected again. It did not make the motor turn either.
I am now at a total loss. What is there left that needs to be done? Need your expert advice.
— Begin quote from Narapni;191511
…In this GE Model WJRE550G1WW, there are only two wires from the water level switch. The middle terminal on the switch has been disabled…
— End quote
Sorry, it was my mistake. There are only two wires connected to the water level switch and as soon as the switch is satisfied, the circuit between the switch terminals 7 & 15 must be open.
Repeat the test with both wires disconnected from the water level switch and not touching each other.
Gene.