Hi all,
I have a GE wpre6150k2wt that we’ve owned for coming up on 5 years. Last night during normal operation we remember it making 2 unusual noises that were somewhere between high-pitched whine and clunks that lasted for a very brief time each time. Otherwise sounded fine.
Well, it won’t spin or agitate but otherwise operates fine. I’ve checked for codes - green light is blinking normal every ~1 second on then off non-stop in an even tempo. I’ve reset it by unplugging for 30+ seconds and then opening/closing lid 5-10 times within 12 seconds of re-plugging in.
The drive belt is tight and pulls the pulley fine both ways. Pulley spins evenly both ways with no noise.
I just pulled the shifter coil and checked resistance and my multimeter is telling me 64.4 ohms which seems about 30ohms short of what I’ve read it should be - nonetheless, it is reading consistent resistance.
The washer runs normal with the lid open/shut - meaning it halts if I open the lid, and turns back on when I close it. No beeping/lid open sounds when the lid is shut.
Based upon the troubleshooting guides online, I’m out of ideas on how to diagnose the issue unless the resistance reading on the shifter coil indicates it is faulty.
Help welcome!
Joe
A faulty mode shifter does not prevent the washer from working. All it would do is cause the basket to agitate along with the agitator during agitation cycle. Your reading is probably normal, there are two different types of mode shifter, one has a coil resistance of 98 ohms and the other 65 ohms. Check the lid switch. There are two sets of contacts on this model. If it’s ok, it’s most likely the motor ($264) but may be the control board ($122). Knowing which requires testing voltages sent to the motor from the control board.
Eric
fairbank56 said:
A faulty mode shifter does not prevent the washer from working. All it would do is cause the basket to agitate along with the agitator during agitation cycle. Your reading is probably normal, there are two different types of mode shifter, one has a coil resistance of 98 ohms and the other 65 ohms. Check the lid switch. There are two sets of contacts on this model. If it’s ok, it’s most likely the motor ($264) but may be the control board ($122). Knowing which requires testing voltages sent to the motor from the control board.
Eric
Hi Eric,
Ah - from the troubleshooting guides, it sounded like a faulty mode shifter is ONE of the causes of the basket to stop spinning/agitating. Just to be clear: the washer fills normally, drains, strong drain pumping…just isn’t agitating or spinning.
I’ll do a more in depth examination of the lid switch. Sound like it’s the most likely culprit since either the motor or control board should be throwing fault codes and I’ve got a steady blinking green LED.
For what it’s worth, by all appearances the motor is not turning on right now and it’s reading no faults - and I understand the lid switch is the most likely culprit.
Will come back later 