The control panel on the machine is completely dead. Last weekend I thought it was the plug because the machine would power up if I wiggled the cord into the plug. I replaced that and it started up. That lasted a few loads. It is now completely dead and will not respond. (My guess is it was not the plug.) Where can I get a manual or what is the next step in repair?
Thank you. I had come to that conclusion after finding and down loading the Tech Guide that had been recommended to someone with a similar problem.
Where is the user interface located? I can find a picture of the part, but have no idea where it is supposed to go. Is there a schematic of this washer someplace?
My Grandmother’s old wringer washer is starting to look very good, even if it did flatten my fingers a few times. Now my wife is saying, "See, you should have just kept fixing the 25 old G.E." Please help bail me out!
Sears is a breed of there own. I sure hope this does it. Let me know. Tom http://www.applianceeducator.com
Dear Kayakcrazy,
Sorry to but in, but my washer is also Kenmore Elite (bought new in 2002), top load, heavy duty, 3 speed power w/ 6 speed combination.
However, once it’s done it’s first washing cycle it stops when it kicks on to the first rinse cycle and won’t spin, nor would the water drains. Somebody told me, it must be the transmission is bust, and I read somewhere in this thread which has a similar problem, its something to do with a switch in the flap cover, etc.
Please give me your advise. Also, is this kind of problem and 6 years of usage, worth repairing with new parts or just buy a new one? Any idea how much is the repair and parts cost?
Thank you.
Roger
— Begin quote from roger aninag;46326
Dear Kayakcrazy,
Sorry to but in, but my washer is also Kenmore Elite (bought new in 2002), top load, heavy duty, 3 speed power w/ 6 speed combination.
However, once it’s done it’s first washing cycle it stops when it kicks on to the first rinse cycle and won’t spin, nor would the water drains. Somebody told me, it must be the transmission is bust, and I read somewhere in this thread which has a similar problem, its something to do with a switch in the flap cover, etc.
Please give me your advise. Also, is this kind of problem and 6 years of usage, worth repairing with new parts or just buy a new one? Any idea how much is the repair and parts cost?
Thank you.
Roger
— End quote
Is your machine an Oasis? Because the subject here may be different I got you covered in another thread but need the model
I finally got the ordered part Thursday evening and plugged it in. It went beep, lit up and then went black and has been black ever since. I have just now calmed down enough to compose a thoughtful question. All I know is I’ll never buy anything else from Sears if they don’t step up and cover all these costs, and I really don’t want to have to call them for help.
I have voltage coming out of the blue bundle of wires that connects the user control board to the ccu. I put my volt meter on the ground contact and the volt in and got something like 24 volts, so power goes in, but I can’t figure out which contact to check to see if power comes back out or if the on/off switch is opening and closing.
Can you give me a hand?
Perhaps the following will help
https://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Tech%20Sheet%20-%208567037.pdf
https://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Wiring%20Sheet%20-%208577781.pdf
Am not sure which one is applicable to your unit.
By the look of it you will will not be able to tell if the ON/OFF is working.
Looks like they are using an active USER INTERFACE. The switches operate an integrated circuit which sets a code which is then read by the CONTROL BOARD. through the DATA Out line. Same type of thing as reading an RSS232 or USB port on a computer.
You can check that the USER INTERFACE is getting power. by measuring the DC voltage inputs VSS to the +15 and +5 volt pins. The + 15 probably runs the display and the +5 probably runs the integrated circuits/transistors.
I would plug in only the following
P13 power in
P11 user interface
And see what happens could be an external device is loading down the power supply.
Note: Am not sure if the display is live when the lid switch is open so you may have to jumper pins 5 to 1 on P12 to get the display
Thank you. I’ll try these tests and see what happens. What you sent me is a different tech sheet then the one I had before. I sure hope it’s neither the ccu or the interface because they ar eboth brand new.
Kenmore Elite model 100.27082602
I performed all manual and automatic diagnostic tests in the tech manual 8567037 REV. A and everything worked. The code that came up at the beginning was the infamous F51. All connections appear correct and check out on the ohm meter. Does this mean that the user interface I just received is bad and I need to send it back? If so would you please steer me to the correct location to find out how to get it back ASAP so I can get this going again.
Thanks again
Dear denman or kayakcrazy,
I just found out how to return the part. Is there anyway to check it, other than what I just did, to make sure it is the problem before I do?
Larry
I would agree. Tom http://www.applianceeducator.com
[SIZE=4]After removing and defrosting the ice maker unit.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=4]It would go through all the motions except add water. The ice water dispenser worked. I replaced the valve inlt unit, but still no water to the ice tray. Is the line that runs up the back and outside of the regrigertor the line feeding the ice maker our does it go through the filter? Thanks[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]Yes if does feed through the water filter but if you get good water pressure to the water dispenser the filter is not the problem. Look in the tube that enters that feeds the icemaker water. If it is stopped up with ice remove the ice and you problem will be fixed. The water valve is typically what would cause this problem and you already replace that. http://www.appliance-repair-it.com/Refrigerator-repair.html[/SIZE]