Washer wont spin and makes a loud clanking sound. Everything else works except the spin cycle, trying to decide if it is the clutch, transmission or the drive tube:confused: Please help!!!
— Begin quote from mparson1969;332472
Washer wont spin and makes a loud clanking sound. Everything else works except the spin cycle, trying to decide if it is the clutch, transmission or the drive tube:confused: Please help!!!
— End quote
M,
You’re on the right track,
But check the Drive Block first
[part]AP2905773[/part]
That’s more apt to make a clank noise,and not spin the tub, if it has rounded out and is not engaged in the tabs on the spin tube.
From there, check and make sure the motor drive coupler, has no broken or bent tabs, as well.
[part]AP3963893[/part]
Then the clutch, all though I’ve never had a bad clutch make a clanking noise, but I imagine it’s a possibility.
Good Luck,
— Begin quote from Joe / APP Team;332514
M,
You’re on the right track,
But check the Drive Block first
[part]AP2905773[/part]
That’s more apt to make a clank noise,and not spin the tub, if it has rounded out and is not engaged in the tabs on the spin tube.
From there, check and make sure the motor drive coupler, has no broken or bent tabs, as well.
[part]AP3963893[/part]
Then the clutch, all though I’ve never had a bad clutch make a clanking noise, but I imagine it’s a possibility.
Good Luck,
— End quote
Where are these parts located at in the washer, is there a diagram to go by? I am having the same problem with a loud cluncking noise and seems it takes awhile for the spin cycle to start. Your help would be appreciated.
— Begin quote from roger tate;334700
Where are these parts located at in the washer, is there a diagram to go by? I am having the same problem with a loud cluncking noise and seems it takes awhile for the spin cycle to start. Your help would be appreciated.
— End quote
Roger,
The "drive block", is located in the tub area, under the agitator and between the two tubs, on the top of the "spin tube".
You’d have to remove: the cabinet, tub cover, agitator, and spin tub, to access the drive blockl.
If you need to access the "drive coupler" clutch or transmission,you’d need to remove: the cabinet, drain pump, motor, and coupler.(and the transmission, if you need to access the clutch assembly or spin tube.
You can use the APP Parts order screens, as a visual aid, so you’ll have a better idea of what to expect and what may be involved.
All access and repairs are do able with basic hand tools, If you’re careful, you can use a small pipe wrench to remove the drive block nut, though they reccomend a special spanner wrench.
First thing you should try is, isolate the noise, is it up high in the tub area, or is it down low , in the cabinet.
I’ve attached a post from our APP Repair Forum, to give you an even better idea of what’s involved.
It may sound bad, but it’s not.
Good Luck,
Thanks, if the noise is down low due i need to still take the tub and all apart?
— Begin quote from roger tate;335163
Thanks, if the noise is down low due i need to still take the tub and all apart?
— End quote
Not likely,
Unless the transmission or clutch is the problem, even then, you’ll only need to remove the agitator(in most cases).
Once you’ve got the noise isolated, ley us know where it is .
We’ll be happy to walk you through the access and checks procedure.
Ok i checked the motor coupler and clutch it looks good. How do i get the agitator off so i can check the drive block. Does it take a special tool to take the agitaor out, and once i get it off what from there? Also could the transmission be bad making this noise? Also when you spin the agitator by hand it makes a clicking noise. Thanks for the help!
— Begin quote from roger tate;336428
Ok i checked the motor coupler and clutch it looks good. How do i get the agitator off so i can check the drive block. Does it take a special tool to take the agitaor out, and once i get it off what from there? Also could the transmission be bad making this noise? Also when you spin the agitator by hand it makes a clicking noise. Thanks for the help!
— End quote
Roger,
No special tools are required to remove the agitator, other than a 7/16" socket and 8 to 10 inch extension for your ratchet wrench.
Remove the agitator cap, or softner dispenser.
on the inside you’ll see a plastic cover, with finger tabs and a rubber "O" ring type seal, remove the plastic cover.
You’ll see the agitator bolt when you look down the center hole in the agitator, remove the bolt(counterclockwise to loosen).
You can remove the agitator as a single piece, by grasping the bottom and lifting straight up.
You should be able to look at the spin block and determine if it’s damaged,
If you wish, you can loosen or remove the spin tub locking nut, you could use a small pipe wrench and hammer if needed to loosen.
To remove the spin tub
Remove the white plastic tub cover, by releasing the tabs from the clips on the outer tub(press down on the tub cover above the area where the clips are located and pull out on the tab).
With the nut removed, you should be able to "rock" the tub and break the grip between the spin tub and drive block, and lift the tub out.
With a large flat blade screwdriver, insert the blade into the gap in the block and carefully pry the gap wider, so you can remove the block.
You can then see the spin tube, on the top. where the block was you’ll see two tabs on the tube, make sure they’re , not rounded off, or distorted,
Look at the bottom of the spin block and check for the same.
Yes, there could be a problem in the transmission, but , that’s our last resort.
We’re almost done,Based on your post, I’m thinking you’re going to find the problem here.