We ran self-clean cycle 2 nights ago and it did it properly but hasn’t heated up since. No error codes. Seems to act like its working (fan and timer and clock work) but both elements remain cold whether Bake, Broil or Self-clean. I tried throwing the circuit breaker for 10 minutes to see if it would reset but that didn’t work. What could it be? Also trying to find a repair manual.
Most likely the problem is open thermal overload located at the back of the oven. Fixing this problem require pulling the oven from the wall. Two parts has to be replaced.
The thermal overload [part]AP3885687[/part]
The cooling blower [part]AP3079434 [/part]
Here is the breakdown diagrams for the oven Replacement parts for Whirlpool RBS275PDB8 BUILT-IN ELECTRIC OVEN | AppliancePartsPros.com
Post the result.
Thank you for your reply regarding Thermal Overlaod. Another question: this may or may not be related but it has always been an issue that for some reason the oven doesn’t work when its very cold out side. Seems pretty odd. But then when outside temp starts getting warmer the oven will start working again. Any ideas? P.S. As you might guess, the oven is built-in to an outside wall.
Hi.
The problem you describe is not related to a blown thermal fuse. While you will have the oven out, check the junction box for a good wire connection. Good luck.
THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP! Oven is back in the wall and working now. [I suppose the real test will be next time we run the self-clean cycle] Anyway, thanks for everything-- couldn’t have done it without you. 
— Begin quote from AquraRoma;679226
Most likely the problem is open thermal overload located at the back of the oven. Fixing this problem require pulling the oven from the wall. Two parts has to be replaced.
The thermal overload [part]AP3885687[/part]
The cooling blower [part]AP3079434 [/part]
Here is the breakdown diagrams for the oven Replacement parts for Whirlpool RBS275PDB8 BUILT-IN ELECTRIC OVEN | AppliancePartsPros.com
Post the result.
— End quote
My pleasure.
I have a Whirlpool RBS305 built in oven. After running the self cleaning cycle it won’t heat up. I’m looking for a design diagram and solution to fix it.
[LEFT]First of all, did you try resetting it to see if that works? Just flip off the circuit breaker that supplies electricity to your oven-- leave it off for 10 minutes and flip it back on. That might reset it. In my case, resetting it didn’t work but it’s worth a try.
[COLOR=#000000]I received this advice on this forum and replaced the parts he suggested. "Most likely the problem is open thermal overload located on the back of the oven. Fixing this problem require pulling the oven from the wall. Two parts have to be replaced. The thermal overload fuse and the cooling blower." I ordered the parts from AppliancePartsPros.com and paid the cheapest shipping and it still arrived in a day and a half. I did the job and the oven now works well… although I suppose the true test will be next time we run the self-clean cycle. The job wasn’t that bad. I’d never worked on an oven before and was a little skeptical but it all went well. Probably have to be somewhat mechanically inclined but don’t have to be an expert or anything. By the way, be sure to flip the circuit breaker for your oven before you pull it from the wall.
[/COLOR][/LEFT]
I found the thermal fuse (aka thermal overload) on the back of the oven. The part is similar but slightly different. Seems it would work though. Here’s my question: why did you replace BOTH the blower and thermal fuse? My blower seems to work perfectly fine. Can’t tell about the fuse. Yet. Seems to be a $45 part though that can’t be too bad.
Can I just replace the thermal fuse?
— Begin quote from Nozz;767733
I found the thermal fuse (aka thermal overload) on the back of the oven. The part is similar but slightly different. Seems it would work though. Here’s my question: why did you replace BOTH the blower and thermal fuse? My blower seems to work perfectly fine. Can’t tell about the fuse. Yet. Seems to be a $45 part though that can’t be too bad.
Can I just replace the thermal fuse?
— End quote
I replaced the blower just to play it safe. Mine also seemed to work fine but when I ordered a new one they make them more powerful now-- so I figured that sounded like a good idea. After all-- there must have been a reason that thermal fuse blew. I concluded that the manufacturer maybe had realized that it needed a more powerful blower. Wouldn’t want to do this again so I figured better safe that sorry for the extra dollars. Good luck.
Thanks! Seems like the way to go. I found 2 similar parts. One from this website:
AppliancePartsPro (Item Number: AP3885687
Manufacturer’s Number: 9759243
Made by Whirlpool
Read more: http://www.applian[ATTACH
http://www.appliancepartspros.com)
and another from Whirlpool’s parts website. Both "seem" to do the job, but I can’t verify. The part from the Whirlpool website is an identical match physically. I haven’t verified this is the fix, but all signs point that way. I’ll provide an update if it does indeed remedy my no-heat oven.
Here’s a picture of the part with the wires disconnected. The "X" spot connects to the 2 double red wires at the 4 or 5 o’clock position.
Hi.
The 9759243 is a correct part.
Simon.
I read the posts here and concluded that the self clean feature blew the thermal fuse (thermostat, whatever it is). So, following the directions on one of the posts, I ordered and just received the thermal fuse and blower (and new inner glass for door bc was broken). I found directions on how to remove the door to replace the glass from the Whirlpool manual that came with the oven (the video that is on this site was not applicable to my model…not the same door hinges). I wanted to replace the fuse and blower first. I did not see a video or instructions here on how to remove the oven from the wall to get to the back to replace the fuse…any tips?? Are there any videos (perhaps on youtube) that show how to replace the fuse and blower? Thank you so much, in advance, for your help. (just saw typo in subject line darn - WHIRLPOOL!!!)